XVIII 
CANELOS TO BANGS 
149 
steep cliff, perhaps 150 feet high, of dangerous 
ascent. In some parts of it on projecting ledges 
poles are set up with notches cut in them wherein 
to step, but they were very slippery, and in clam- 
bering up them I trusted more to my hands than 
to my feet. Beyond this the ground is nearly 
level to the Topo, which we reached in an hour 
more. Here our worst fears were realised. The 
Topo, as far as we could see up it, and downwards 
to its junction with the Pastasa, was one mass of 
foam, and the thunder of its waters against the 
rocks made the very ground shake to some distance 
from the bank. The Topo is perhaps the largest 
tributary of the Pastasa on the north side ; its 
course is much shorter than that of the Bombonasa, 
but more water seems to come down it. Its 
source is in the snowy mountain Llanganati — the 
fabulous El Dorado of the Ouitensians. . . . This 
mountain and its offshoots occupy nearly all the 
space between the head of the Napo and the Rio 
de Patate, both which rivers rise in Cotopaxi. . . . 
The Topo is never low enough to be fordable on 
foot, and though numerous explorations of its 
banks have been made for some leagues up, no 
place has been found practicable for a bridge save 
the accustomed one, which is about 200 yards 
above its junction with the Pastasa. Here, on 
each side of the river, which is perhaps 100 feet 
wide, stands a large rock, nearly fiat-topped, and 
rising some 12 feet above high water; they are 
rather difficult of access, but can be clambered 
up. . . . 
In the middle of the river, and in a line with 
these two rocks, is a smaller one of equal height, 
