cH.xix IN THE ECUADOREAN ANDES 199 
It is a striking sight to look over the great 
square at Riobamba on a market-day, and see it 
crowded with Indians and rustics in dresses of the 
gayest colours ; while the shops that surround the 
square have their glittering and gaudy wares hung 
outside, or spread out on mats on the wide pave- 
ment ; and at the back, Chimborazo towers high 
into the sky — its snow shining in the sun like 
polished silver — and seems to touch the very 
houses of the town at its base, although half a day's 
journey away. 
Several snowy peaks, besides Chimborazo, are 
visible from Riobamba, the chief being El Altar, 
La Candelaria, Sangay, and Tunguragua. The last I 
call my mountain, because I explored its flanks for 
seven months, from Banos. I made a desperate 
attempt to get in at the south-western side of it, 
from Riobamba, and devoted several days to it, but 
paid dearly for my presumption. My aim was to 
ascend by a magnificent cataract, called Guandisagua, 
which comes out from under the snowy cope of 
Tunguragua, and falls at three leaps into the warm 
valley of Capil, where flourish Seville oranges, 
alligator-pears, and sugar-cane — a total height of 
some 8000 feet (15,700-7500). What with alter- 
nately wading in the cold snow-water and climbing 
up cliffs under a hot sun, I had to keep my bed for 
four days afterwards, with rheumatic pains from 
head to foot. 
... I met with agreeable society in Ambato 
which I had not reckoned on. The Hon. Philo 
White, American Minister to Ecuador, resides here, 
with his wife, nine months in the year. They 
find the climate suits them better than that of 
