XX THE FORESTS OF ALAUSI 237 
journey farther down. I brought recommendations 
from Ambato, and the people seemed willing to 
assist me ; but the houses were so miserable, so 
full of dirt and vermin, and so utterly destitute of 
furniture (for I could procure neither bedstead, 
chair, nor table), that I saw I should work on my 
plants with infinitely less comfort than I used to 
do in a palm-hut in the warm forest. Another and 
greater difficulty was the procuring of food for my 
beasts, for all the pastures were dried up, and a 
man who sold me alfalfa for two days then told me 
he could spare no more. About a league from 
Chilnchi, and 1000 feet lower down, there is a cane- 
farm called Guataxi, whose owner, Senor Jose Leon, 
I had known in Riobamba. Almost in despair, 
I rode down to consult with him, and he at once 
invited me to take up my quarters in the hacienda, 
where he has a good house, with neatly-papered 
rooms and decent furniture. The cane -grounds 
extend along the banks of a stream, which before 
falling into the Chanchan forms a considerable lake, 
on whose shores there was still a little herbage ; 
besides that a few squares near the house were 
planted with alfalfa. 
On the third day after establishing myself at 
Guataxi, having procured a guide, I proceeded to 
Lucmas, a short day's journey lower down the 
river, where there are a few small chacras tenanted 
by Indians and Zambos. There I was told I should 
be near the Cascarilla roja (Red Bark), and I was 
recommended to a person called Bermeo, who had 
worked a good deal at getting out cascarilla and 
sarsaparilla. I at once secured his services, and, 
as he turned out an honest, active fellow, I took 
