XXI 
rO THE CINCHONA FORESTS 
265 
before reaching the zone where these genera grow in the greatest 
luxuriance, and at less than 2000 feet below the Arenal, we came 
on the first tree, a Polylepis (allied to our common burnet), form- 
ing groves here and there along the declivity. The bark of this 
tree resembles that of the birch in colour, and in its peeling off 
in flakes ; but if one could suppose an arborescent Ac3ena, it 
would give a better idea of the pinnate silvery foliage. On the 
opposite side — not of Chimborazo, which is bare of trees, but of 
its sister mountain Carguairazo — a Buddleia approaches nearest 
the snow-line. In descending the same side of the Cordillera, 
towards Pallatanga, ten leagues south of Chimborazo, a Podo- 
carpus and a Berberis ascend higher than any other tree, while a 
Polylepis (distinct from that of Chimborazo) ceases 1000 feet 
below them. On Chimborazo, on the contrary, the same Podo- 
carpus fails a long way below the first-mentioned Polylepis. An 
accurate discrimination of the species is therefore needed, before 
we can compare their climatal distribution. 
Still descending, various other trees began to appear, such as 
Buddleise, Myrcise, and especially an Araliacea, called from its 
large palmate leaves (which are hoary beneath) Puma-maqui or 
tiger's paw. Here and there the track rounded the heads of 
quebradas, deep and dark, and full of low trees, which were laden 
with mosses. 
At about half-way down we came out on a narrow grassy ridge, 
called the Ensillada (Saddleback), where several long low straw huts 
had been recently erected for the accommodation of the soldiery 
when marching that way. As we neared the encampment, four 
raw-looking youths armed with lances rushed out and confronted 
us, demanding our passports. We had none to show, but our 
antagonists did not look very formidable, and a shot from one of 
our revolvers would probably have put them to flight, had I not 
been furnished with a weapon which I have found far safer and 
more efficacious in such contingencies, namely, a bottle of strong 
aguardiente, a taste of which dispelled all opposition to our pro- 
gress, and also served to induce the guardians of the pass to boil 
us water for making coffee. - 
Below the Ensillada we came on steeply-inclined strata of 
schists, across and down which we went on stumbling for at least 
a couple of hours ; for, as the track runs over their projecting and 
jagged edges, which no pains have been taken to smooth down, 
we passed them not without inconvenience and danger. At this 
stage of our journey we became enveloped in cloud, which filled 
all the valley of Guaranda, so that we could thenceforth only 
discern objects near at hand. 
We reached Guaranda just after nightfall, having travelled 
eleven weary leagues from Chuquipogyo. Guaranda is a rather 
neat little town, with good tiled houses built of adobes, and stands 
