VOYAGE TO THE RIO NEGRO 201 
as the Brazilians term the Upper Amazon — but it 
is less deep, and its waters are placid almost as a 
lake ; and it looks at first sight more like the direct 
continuation of the Amazon than does the Solimoes, 
which starts off with an abrupt bend to southward. 
We reached the Barra just after dark on the 
evening of the loth, having been sixty-three days 
on the voyage, although the distance from Santarem 
is only 404 miles. I went on shore and waited on 
Senhor Henrique Antonij, to whom my letters of 
credit were addressed. He gave us a most kind 
and cordial reception, and at once installed us in 
the upper rooms of a new two-story house he had 
just completed, and invited us to eat at his well- 
furnished table. 
Senhor Henrique — for by that name he was and 
still is known throughout Amazonland, the surname 
Antonij being ignored — has been the travellers' 
friend at the Barra for more than forty years ^ ; and 
is spoken of in books of travel dating as far back as 
those of Mawe and of Smyth and Lowe. A native 
of Leghorn, he emigrated to Para in 1821, being 
then only fifteen years of age, and in the following 
year ascended to the Barra, where he has ever 
since resided. He merits indeed the title of Father 
of the Barra, for when he arrived there it was going 
rapidly to decay, and no one did so much for its 
resuscitation and renovation as he, not only in 
building new and substantial houses, but in extend- 
ing its commerce, and in opening out new channels 
for its industry — very profitable to the community, 
if not always to himself When I knew him, in 
1851-55, he was still young and fresh-looking, with 
^ [This was written about 1870. — Ed.] 
