248 NOTES OF A BOTANIST 
tiny lamps were one by one dropped into the water, 
forming a long line of fire which the rapid current 
bore swiftly away towards Old Amazon. The 
scene was further enlivened by the letting off of 
numerous rockets and muskets loaded nearly to the 
muzzle, and by the singing of sundry coarse voices 
to the music of gaitas (bamboo flutes with two 
holes), the hammering of a crazy drum, and several 
tambourines. 
We landed as the Saint was brought on shore 
and deposited in the chapel. I was introduced to 
the Juiz and Juiza, who led me to the foot of the 
altar, where, of course, I was merely a spectator, 
while they and their suite arranged themselves in a 
semicircle, the Juiz holding the Saint, the Juiza by 
his side holding a long staff gaily decked with 
ribbons, and the rest with smaller staves similarly 
decorated. Vespers were then sung, proper I 
suppose to the occasion, the congregation assisting 
in the responses. In the very middle of the service, 
a singer a little within the door, seeing one of his 
companions outside, called out in a stentorian voice, 
" Pether ! what's th' aboot there? cum in wi' tha 
an' sing!" (I translate in Yorkshire in order to 
come nearer the original than I could in English). 
This caused not merely a smile, but a general laugh. 
Prayers ended, we were all invited to eat doce. A 
table covered with a white cloth was extended in 
a long verandah, on which was doce of papaw in 
cups, with a spoon and a tapioca biscuit to each. 
The brancos partook first, and afterwards the 
ladies and gentlemen of all colours (only two real 
whites were present — your humble servant and a 
Portuguese settler named Vasconcellas, for Senhor 
