VOYAGE UP THE RIO NEGRO 287 
dence who had thus brought me safely through 
all the dangers of the voyage, and had permitted 
me to reach its termination without losing either 
my vessel or a single article of her cargo, the latter 
to me invaluable. For my life I had never any 
fears. Throughout the ascent of the caxoeiras I 
kept as lightly clad as possible, in order not to 
be incommoded in swimming should it ever be 
necessary to abandon the canoe, which it happily 
was not, and I think I could have swum out of any 
place we passed. My Uaupe Indians did not hesi- 
tate to swim down the most furious of the falls ; 
they even seemed to delight in doing it, using only 
their legs in swimming and stretching out their 
arms under water in front of their head and chest, 
which they thereby saved from any blow of a 
sunken rock. 
It was past 4 o'clock ere I got the canoe un- 
laden and the goods stowed in my new residence, 
and the Tochaua and his men were not paid and 
sent off until nearly dark. I found looking-glasses 
most in request with them, and one little fellow 
took a couple. Next to these were tercados (cut- 
lasses). The Tochaua had done but little, yet, as 
he had furnished me the men, I gave him a gay 
handkerchief. They all seemed highly contented, 
and went their way rejoicing. They were really 
a set of fine fellows, always in good humour, and 
when the patron wished for anything it was which 
could get it for him first. One of them, called 
Ignacio, had during the voyage offered to stay 
with me in Sao Gabriel, and I have accepted his 
offer. He is a tall, stout, handsome fellow, and 
appears remarkably good-natured. 
