216 
FOREST AND STREAM. 
[March i8, 1S9O. 
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CENTERBOARD KNOCKABOUT DESIGNED BY W. H. HAND, JR., 1899. 
Mast— 
From Stem at L.W.L. 4ft. i in. 
Deck to hounds 24ft. 9 in. 
Deck to truck 31ft. 10 in. 
Bowsprit — 
Beyond stem at L.W.L 8ft. 9 in. 
Outside gammon iron 3ft- 10 in. 
Boom 26ft. 6 in. 
Gaff i6ft. 4 in. 
Sail Area — 
Mainsail • • • • • .520 sq. ft. 
Jib • . -132 sq. ft. 
I f. ■ — - 
Total 652 sq. ft. 
One important result of the improved proportions and 
form is the facility which they afford for a simple and 
comparatively cheap construction. The fore and aft mem- 
bers, keel, clamps and bilge stringers, can be run from 
stem to transom in single lengths with no scarfs nor abrupt 
bends, being easily worked and yet giving great strength 
with little weight. The old square trunk log, heavy and 
entailing rciuch labor in the workings, is replaced by a 
flat plank keel of oak, lOj^ by 3^4in., from the scarf of 
stem to the transom, the arched form servmg to stiffen 
the hull vertically with no weight of deadwoods forw;ard ; 
the iron keel and after deadwoods backing up the middle 
of the wood keel. ' r/- 
- The frames are steamed and bent, sided > 
moulded iH'm. at heels and i^in. at head; spaced lom. 
The clamps are of oak, 2^ by 2 amidships, and 2 by 2 at 
the ends. The bilge stringers are of yellow pine, 5 by 1/2 
amidships and 2 by at the ends. The mam deck beams 
at ends of trunk, are of oak, 2^ by 2^^; the other s,_ 1V4. 
by lU. The planking is of ^in. white pme. The cabin is 
lift. long and 6ft. gin. wide, with 4ft. 8m. head room. 
Xhe cockpit is 6ft. sin. long and 6ft, wide. 
Gasolene Engines and Launches.— III. 
BY F. K. GRAIN. 
{Continued from ^age 176, March i.) 
Installing. — Next we come to the matter of installing 
the motor in boat. If possible, by all means put it in the 
stern, and place the gasolene tank in the bow. Fit some 
good hard wood keelsons on top of the timbers running 
parallel with the keel, but in no case allow the timbers 
to rest on the planking; place your motor on these tim- 
bers, using as many of them as possible. Then bore down 
through the bolt holes in your motor, and through the 
bottom. Have bolts made to fit these holes, with flat 
heads on the outside, and good nuts inside, this will hold 
the motor in place as long as the bottom remains in the 
boat. Be careful to have your shaft, bearings, etc., m 
perfect line with motor. Do not place motor too low 
down, as it only makes it more liable to injury from slop- 
ping of bilge water, it also makes it more unhandy, and 
sometimes very difficult of access to clean or repair. 
For the hot air and exhaust connections use common 
iron pipe, but for the water pipes by all means put in 
brass, and in both cases use unions with ground joints 
for connections. The gasolene pipe should be of heavy 
lead, not less than %in. inside diameter, and should have 
a brass union and stop cock at motor and tank ends. A 
copper tank should be used for the gasolene and pro- 
vided with one or more bulkheads, or wash boards inside 
in order that the fluid will not swash when the boat is 
laboring in a seaway. . , . , , , r 
Yoiir batteries should be placed m a dry locker or for- 
ward, with the tank, and in racks so that they cannot fall 
out or tip over ; they should be located where they will at 
all times be accessible. . - - 
Difficulties to Detect and Overcome. — We will now 
assume that you have your motor in place and have 
learned from the book of instructions how to operate it. 
Something goes wrong, however, and the question arises. 
What are you going to do? Suppose your motor thumps 
or pounds; in most cases a few raps of a hammer driving 
in the key hdlding the fly-wheel will help matters; fly- 
wheels generally, particularly on gas engines, are prone 
to work their keys loose. Perhaps the trouble still con- 
tinues; look at the crank pin brasses on the connecting 
rod, throw the motor on its upper or lower center, place 
the second finger on the brasses over the joint between the 
upper and lower halves of the brasses, now move the fly- 
wheel from side to side so that the piston will travel over 
the center and back again, then, if your brasses are loose 
you will at once feel it. They must, however, be tightened 
with great care. 
If the noise still continues, look next to the set screws 
in the shaft coupling, this failing, you will do well to 
experiment with the firing mechanism ; it may be firing 
either too early or too late, which will cause a thumping. 
With most all motors either an excess of or insufficient 
gasolene, which causes either an early or late ignition, will 
produce the same trouble. If you do not get a clear, 
sharp, even, exhaust, it is as a rule caused by insufficient 
atmosphere in the mixture of the gas. A lack of air will 
also cause your motor to act sluggishly, and to produce 
the best results it is always well to give your vaporizer 
all the air possible, it not only produces a good, quick, easy 
action to the motor, but prevents any residue overcharged 
burnt gas from forming a deposit of dirt m the cylinder 
and valves. , . , j u 
By giving the motor more or less air, the speed can .be 
controlled, but we strongly advise you against this prac- 
tice • it is not only bad for your vaporizing apparatus, but 
harmful to the motor in many ways. Be sure your sight- 
