iio 
FOHESt AND ^THeAM, 
M i|iM I 
Detail of Keel 
feed cylinder lubricator is working, and always start it 
feeding before you start the motor. If there is a grind- 
ing, rubbing or squeaking noise that seems to come from 
the cylinder, it will in most cases be found that the 
cylinder is not getting sufficient oil, in which case open 
wide the feed screw or lubricator, and cause the cup to 
flush a quantity of oil into the cylinder at once. While on 
the subject of lubrication let me say it is of the utmost 
importance that all parts, especially the cylinder, should 
receive a sufficient supply of the best lubricating oils. 
Now your motor is running along, and all at once there 
is a kick, as if something inside the motor had hit and ob- 
structed it for a fraction of the stroke. Also, there may 
be a puff of smoke from around the valve stems or 
igniter spindle, and in many cases out of the exhaust 
also; this is caused by what is known as a late or back 
explosion, that is to say, the gas is too poor in gasolene, 
causing it to fail to thoroughly ignite until the piston is 
about on its lower center. The remedy, of course, is to 
give the vaporizer less air. 
Skipping explosions is a very common occurrence, and 
is in most cases laid to the batteries becoming weak. This 
is, however, riot by any means the cause in every case, and 
many times the igniter spindle or shaft fits so tight that 
when it becomes hot and expands, the spring that operates 
it is not sufficiently strong. Do not tighten the springs 
except as a makeshift, but remove the spindle and ease it 
up a little with fine emery cloth, this not being at hand 
scrape it with the back of a knife, but never attempt to 
file it. 
The wires connecting the batteries together, also to 
the motor, are liable to work loose, and, although they 
may not look so, will often be found by testing the thumb 
screws to be ready to drop off. It often happens that in 
the use of old or cheap insulated wire, that, although it 
looks all right, and the covering perfect, the wire mside 
will be broken, and as the motor vibrates, these ends will 
make and break the circuit. Care should be taken to 
keep all the poles, on both batteries and motor, bright and 
In motors of the two-cycle type failure to ignite on 
starting is at times caused by the gas being too rich, it 
in many cases igniting once or twice, and then after turn- 
ing the fly-wheel until tired, the operator gives it up. 
This rich gas must be gotten out of the motor before it 
will ignite, and if there is no outlet at the top of cylinder 
it is apt to stay there to a certain extent. It is always 
best to have an air cock of say i4in. size tapped mto the 
cylinder head so that in such cases the cock can be opened, 
allowing the gas to escape and fresh air to be drawn in 
on the motor being turned, taking care to shut off the 
gasolene supply entirely. 
Lubrication.— Want of lubrication or dryness pt the 
cylinder will at times cause the motor to dimmish its 
speed and will result in the stoppage of the machine if 
allowed to continue, also cutting the surface of the 
cylinder and piston ring. It often produces a rubbing and 
squeaking sound. To trace out a foreign sound, locate 
as near as possible the affected part, then take a stick the 
size of a lead pencil, place one end on the suspected 
part, holding the other end between the teeth, holding both 
ears closed. It will be a surprise how clearly a sound of 
any kind can be located by this means. 
Danger from Open Cocks.— Never place any part ot 
the body in range with an open cylinder or relief cock 
when handling the motor, as when the charge is ignited 
these cocks discharge burning gas. 
Throttling.— Gas engines cannot, for numerous rea- 
sons be throttled down as low as steam or other constant 
pressure motors, and care should be taken when doing 
this or approaching a dock, as a failure may at a_ critical 
moment result in the stoppage of the motor, leaving you 
helpless to control the boat. 
A Few Wrinkles. 
Oilers.— Oil cans can be had in copper and brass, of 
all shapes and sizes, but the most useful is a common 
zinc one-pint oiler for machinery oil, and for the cylinder 
oil a ten cent tin (one quart) coffee pot is the quickest 
feeder and handiest can to be ha^d. 
Oils.— Always use best and ttle at a 
time, and often, is the invarial. 
Do not put graphite in you tliey are 
especially made for that purpos , 
Cleaning Lubricators.— T( bricators 
use gasolene, the same will cle^ and also 
all grease in the bottom of yo cock put 
m your gasolene tank so that you can draw off gasolene 
for cleaning independent of your motor connections. 
Cleaning IMotors. — Don't wipe your motor after us- 
ing, the oil will keep it from rusting. Clean it before 
use. 
Rust Preventer.— To keep springs and bright parts 
from rusting, oil them when they are hot. 
Cleaning Brasswork. — After cleaning your brasswork. 
if it is to stand any length of time, cover it over witli 
vaseline, it preserves it from corroding, wipes off easily 
and does not hurt the hands. Treat your wrenches and 
tools the same way. A small paint brush is the best 
thing for putting on vaseline, as you can reach the small 
places most apt to rust and hardest to clean. 
Do not cover your motor, whether in open or cabin 
boats, as it causes it to sweat and consequently it \yill rust 
quicker than if exposed to rain. 
Leaky Joints. — If joints of cylinder, etc., leak, repack 
them, using thinnest asbestos paper; be sure the surfaces 
are perfectly clean, then give both surfaces and paper a 
coat of shellac before putting together. 
Tightening Bolts.— To tighten up bolts of cylinder 
head or any similar place, start by putting down one 
moderately tight, then follow with the opposite one, then 
the one at right angles, working from side to side, and 
after all are in place and tight, follow in like manner and 
screw down hard. 
Joint Pigments. — Shellac is the best medium for use 
on all joints, either flat or threaded, as it is not affected by 
gasolene; common brown soap is a good substitute, and 
leaks in gasolene tanks can often be temporarily repaired 
with a piece of soap stuck on over the leak or forced into 
a seam. 
. Defacing Surfaces. — Do not pound on any of the 
metal parts of your motor with a steel hammer or 
wrench, as it is sure to deface the part struck. Hold a 
piece of hardwood on the part to be struck,' or still bet- 
ter, provide yourself with a copper hammer, it is always 
useful. 
Do not use a pipe wr£nch on a nut or any surface that 
is liable to be defaced; if you must, wrap a piece of tin 
around the object or stick a piece of wood under each 
jaw of the wrench. If you have use for a pipe wrench 
and have none, put your monkey wrench over the object 
and then hold a file into the angle between the object and 
the forward jaw of the wrench. If you have a pipe to 
take down that is too large for your wrench, make a loop 
around it with a piece of marlin and then around a stick, 
using the latter as a lever and pry against the slip of 
loop. 
Nuts, pipes, etc., that will not move readily, can be 
started by pounding all sides with a hammer, holding an 
iron or stone weight against the opposite side, then apply 
wrench. 
Paint for Motors. — Good paint for gasolene motors 
are the various bronze powders put on with shellac. For 
very hot pipes, common stove blacking is as good as 
anything, and always leaves the pipes clean. 
Cement for Foundation. — To mix cement for founda- 
tion under or filling around motor, use one part Portland 
cement with two parts clean sharp sand mixed with fresh 
water. 
Spark Coil and Connections. — Keep your spark coil 
dry, otherwise the iron wire core will rust and spoil it, if 
the coil becomes thoroughly wet, it will short circuit and 
become useless until dry. Always keep connections on 
ends clean, and in good contact. A good plan is to 
fasten the coil up under a dry place under the deck, first 
having it nicely boxed. 
Switch. — The points of your switch will often corrode 
and should be scraped or sand-papered off occasionally. 
A good serviceable switch is made by fastening a brass 
screw into the bulkhead, attached to one wire, then place 
another attached to other end of wire about 3in. below 
the former, connect the two by the means of a spiral brass 
spring, having the spring fastened permanently to one 
screw, and on other end turn a loop. To connect draw 
spring down and hook loop over the under screw head, 
this makes a good connection that is not knocked off or 
disarranged easily. 
Packing for Shaft. — To pack stuffing box of propel- 
ler, get square Italian hemp packing laid up in grease, cut 
a piece that will reach around the shaft, first binding both 
ends with thread so it will not unravel, then fill stuffing 
box half-full of grease and with a stick of proper size 
force the packing down into the bottom of the box, ^ut in 
another proceeding as before, taking care to break joints 
with the packing, fill the box about half-full, then replace 
gland and screw up moderately tight, then slack away one 
or two turns backward on the gland, so that the packing 
does not bind shaft. If ready made packing is not at 
hand, use lamp wicking, braiding it round in four parts, 
first greasing the strands so as to braid- in the grease. 
Wire Connections. — In making all wire connections 
always coil the wire a half-dozen times over a lead pencil 
at the ends, as this allows for breakage, wear, and makes 
a flexible joint not liable to pull or jar off the connection. 
Keys. — -If the key of fliy-wheel works loose, cut a strip 
of thin tin from top of a milk can, or a tin type will an- 
swer still better; put this in on the slack side of the key 
and drive both in, taking care not to buckle up the tin. 
Pump. — If your pump refuses to work on first starting 
hit the inlet check valve or pump a sharp rap with a 
stick, and nine times out of ten your difficulty is over. 
Pumps need repacking, and also tightening up on the 
packing at times, when this occurs use great care not to 
get the packing screwed down too tight or it will either 
buckle the connection or cause the packing to cut the 
plunger. 
Use Of Lead on Joints. — Never use either black,_ white 
or red lead on any joints on a gas motor or its piping, as 
the gas will cut it out in a short time. 
[to be continued.] 
The Conversion of Inyoni. 
BY colonel HARRINGTON BAKER. 
From the Yachiing Monthly Magazine. 
The mainsail was then reduced to i,20osq. ft.; 3ft. was 
taken off the foot of the spinaker, some slight altera- 
tions to the sharp-headed topsail (the only one I take 
when cruising), and about 6in. from luff of No. i jib — 
nothing else required alteration. The jackyard, topsail 
can still be used for racing, and of course both jibtop- 
sails fit, and are very handy in light airs. 
She steered easily in moderate winds; but when she 
got her sail down in a strong breeze she wanted more 
weather helm than I liked, so I gave her a new bow- 
sprit (only a stump, after all), i8in. longer, and now 
she steers beautifully in any weather. 
She is quiet in a seaway and easily handled. Our crew 
this summer has usually been three ladies and two other 
amateurs, beside myself (no paid hands), and we have 
had some rough weather off the Longships and Lizard 
BEFORE 
J 
t ' I I -I I f 
Mid-ship Section 
in which she behaved very well. We worked her six 
miles up the Fal to Tregothnan Pool in a strong 
N.W. wind, which is a good proof of her handiness; 
and we logged 21 knots from Falmouth to Fowey in two 
and a quarter hours, i. e., nine and a half knots an hour, 
towing our boats, one of the girls steering all the time; 
wind, N.W. strong. 
We find a Simplex stockless anchor of iialbs. most 
useful, and I think this pattern holds as well as that of 
any other of the same weight, but I also think it requires 
more scope of chain. 
Inyoni's dimensions are now as under: 
Length- 
Over all 67ft. 7in 
L.W.L 46ft. 9>n 
Beam 12ft. loin 
Depth to platform . . - 6ft. 
Draft 
8ft. 
Sm 
pin 
Displacement, about 25 tons 
Lead keel, etc., about - 13 tons 
Mainsail i,200sq.ft. 
• Jib 270sq.ft. 
Foresail ■ • 220sq.ft. 
Topsail (cruising) 200sq.ft. 
Total cruising sail (exclusive of spinaker).. i,690sq.ft. 
Total Y. R. A 2,Siosq.ft. 
Two boats on davits. 
PUBLISHERS' DEPARTMENT. 
The Week's Record. 
This is the Way Advertisers Esteem Forest and Stream** 
Adveitising. 
Dan Kidney & Son, boat builders, of West De Pere, Wis., 
write: "Please keep our ad. in the Forest and Stream till we 
tell you to take it out. It is good enough for us." 
The Chicago Varnish Co., write: "Inclosed please find cofl' 
tract for our advertisement in your paper for the following yeatv 
We are glad to renew the contract, as we feel that we get good 
results from it." 
Both "Ways Across the Pond. 
Forest and Stream advertising covers the world. Messrs. 
W. J Cummins, of England, tell us that their advt. in Forest 
and Stream makes business for them on this side of the Atlantic, 
and in return the Horton Manufacturing Co., through the same 
medium, have been filling orders for the Bristol steel rod to go 
to Great Britain. Christiania, Denmark, sportsmen are luring game 
with the Canvas Decoy Co.'s artful simulacra, and they found 
out about them in Forest and Stream. The world is small 
when you use Fokest and Siheam to encircle it, 
