turpentine that has risen to the top. The lead is then 
ready to cut up with more turpentine to about the con- 
sistency of thick molasses, then add sufficient good raw 
linseed oil to bring it thin enough to spread and flow well, 
adding to each quart of paint about half a tea cup of best 
varnish. The varnish acts as a dryer and will make piaint 
very elastic and durable. If the paint works hard and 
does not spread well add a little turpentine, but care must 
be taken to put it in sparingly and stir it well. 
To mix colors proceed as for white lead. For painting 
black, either coach, drop or ivory black ground in oil are 
most used. Mix as for white paint, but remember that 
about one-quarter of the quantity will cover the same 
space. All blacks should be well rubbed out under the 
brush. When the boat is new it is best — if painting 
white — to put on three to four coats, applying all coats 
thin and giving each coat plenty of time to dry. By this 
means the surface will be of miiform thickness and ah 
small cracks, pricks, etc., filled, and will make a coating 
that will not peel or crack. All puttying should be done 
after the first coat, and each of the succeeding coats 
should be lightly rubbed with curled hair or excelsior. 
Never mix paints, especially for the outside, that will di"y 
very hard, with an excess of gloss, as it will not wear off 
or chalk, but cracks and peels, which soon makes it 
necessary to burn oS the old paint; whereas, if the paint 
chalks or washes off a little it will by the time repainting 
is necessary have left the wood smooth and easy to sand- 
paper. 
Putty. — Putty is best made of white lead thickened 
with selax, or when that cannot be had whitening will 
answer. For the garboard and all seams under water a 
good strong putty made of white lead thickened with 
red is best. Never put putty in with the finger as it will 
leave the surface hollow. There are places such as the 
chafing ribbons, rails, etc., where it is difficult to make 
putty stay; in such cases use the best pure beeswax, put- 
ting it in hot. 
Bottom Paint. — The under water body should be 
given two coats of red lead, using three parts red to one 
part of white. It should be well rubbed unler the brush. 
This will forrn a good body and hold for the necessary 
two coats of anti-fouling paint to finish. There is very 
little or any choice between the different brands of cop- 
per or anti-fouling paint, success in their use depending 
mostly on the care used in applying them. 
In using these paints it is necessary to keep them con- 
tinually stirred while applying, which, owing to the 
weight, can best be done by a piece of iron or iron pipe 
and should be well rubbed out. None of these paincs 
should be put on until just before the boat is ready to 
launch as the paint deteriorates when left exposed to the 
atmosphere. Some use white zinc and English white 
lead, which without doubt gives a very fine job, but we 
think that with proper use the best American leads will 
be found to answer all requirements. Various patent 
paints and enamels are offered but they are not suited to 
marine work, especially on salt water. When colors are 
used the finish and durability can be greatly improved by 
finishing with a coat of good spar varnish. 
Enamel Paint. — If an enamel paint is wanted it can 
be easily made by extracting as much as possible of the 
oil from white lead by use of turpentine, then add color- 
ing to suit and thin with a Damar varnish; it should be 
applied hot if possible, to do which place the can in a 
vessel containing hot water and let it remain there while 
in use. 
Two or three coats are generally necessary and it 
should be rubbed with curled hair between each coat, in 
cleaning, scraping and sandpapering a motor to renew 
paint great care must be taken to cover all bearings and 
plug up all oil holes, otherwise particles of paint are 
Jiabie to work in and ruin the working parts. 
Varnish. — We now come to varnishing, and first off 
we will assmue we have new wood to finish. To 
begin with the wood must be thoroughly scraped with a 
cabinet scraper, then cut down with fine sandpaper. We 
now take wood filler, which can be bought ready for use, 
and after thinning with turpentine brush it in thoroughly. 
If on hard woods of open grain, like oak or ash, the filler 
is mixed moderately thick, then when the filler begins to 
set it must be thoroughly rubbed down with excelsior or 
rags. If on soft woods of close grain, such as pine, 
cypress, etc., the filler can be applied quite thin, and after 
it is thoroughly dried rub it with fine sandpaper. All 
fillers show up white on wood when dry but disappear 
on applying varnish. 
After the filler is thoroughly dry and rubbed smooth 
apply a good coat of varnish, rubbing it on well and 
being careful to cover all spots; when this is perfectly 
hard then take curled hair or pumice stone and water and 
rub all the gloss off so that the surface has a dull appear- 
ance, it is then ready for the finishing coat which must 
be put on evenly and of good body. This will give a fine 
finish, but can, of course, be improved by application of 
more coats, rubbing each coat as before. Care must be 
taken not to have the varnish chilled, and if in that state 
warm it by putting on hot water. Varnish should not be 
applied when the temperature is below 56 degrees or on 
exceedingly hot days, and it should not be exposed to ex- 
cessive heat of the sun. 
All spar varnishes are slow drying and if applied indoors 
are sometimes weeks in drying, it is then far better for 
the rubbing coats to use good quick drying varnish and 
then on a good day apply the spar varnish out doors. 
Never varnish toward night as the dampness will spoil 
the best varnish. If a very fine finish is desired rub the 
last coat with pumice stone and water and polish with oil; 
this will give a surface that will not scratch and can be 
kept in first class order by an occasional rubbing with a 
piece of oiled waste. To revarnish old work the first 
thing is to scrape off' as much of the old varnish as pos- 
sible. When there is much of the old varnish left am- 
monia will be found a great help in removing it. Take a 
rag or piece of waste, dip in the ammonia, then rub over 
a few feet of the surface to be scraped. Let this stand 
for ten minutes when it will be found very easy to scrape. 
By doing but a small piece at a time, that is allowing a 
patch to soak while the last is scraped it will be found to 
work easily and quickly. After having thoroughly 
scraped the old surface cut it down smooth with fine 
sandpaper. Fine sandpaper will be found to cut faster 
and better than coarse. 
If the wood is now bare apply wood filler and proceed 
