312 Report on the Dairy-Farming of the North-west of Prajvce. 
d'Auge, although there are some also in Le Bessin ; but I have 
found it necessary to discard my notes on all but three dairies, 
namely, one in Le Bessin, near Isigny (that of the Marquis 
de Cussey de Jucoville), and two in the Pays d'Auge, that of 
M. Paynel at Mesnil Mauger, near Lisieux (whose grandmother 
first made this kind of cheese, in 1791, at Camembert in 
Orne), and one near Livarot, where I was taken by that dis- 
interested and enthusiastic pioneer of agricultural progress, the 
Viscount de Neuville, President of the Societe d'Encouragement 
de Lisieux. 
Even in these dairies there are differences in the details of 
the various processes of making and curing, and it must frankly 
be admitted that Camembert cheese-making is still a " rule-of- 
thumb " procedure, and has not yet been reduced to scientific 
principles. 
The cows are generally milked three times a day, namely, at 
4.30 A.M., 11.30 A.M., and 6 P.M. In most dairies the evening's 
milk is lightly skimmed in the morning, after having stood 12 
hours, and butter is made with the cream. The skimmed milk 
is divided into two portions, one of which is added to the 
morning's and the other to the midday's milking. The mixture 
of two-thirds whole and one-third skim milk is immediately 
put into earthenware vessels, holding about 12 to 15 gallons 
each, and sufficient rennet is added to make the curd fit to be 
transferred to the cheese-moulds in about three or four hours, or 
perhaps after a longer interval in winter. It should be men- 
tioned that, before adding the rennet, the milk is brought to 
about the temperature which it is supposed to have had when 
it was drawn from the cow, say about 86^ Fahr. After adding 
tlie rennet, its mixture with the milk is ensured by a gentle 
stirring, and the pots are then covered with a square board. 
The curd is known to be ready for removal when it does not 
adhere to the back of the finger placed gently upon it, and when 
the liquid which runs off the finger is as nearly as possible 
colourless. 
When ready, the curd is carefully transferred, without break- 
ing it more than is possible, to perforated moulds, of the same 
diameter as a Camembert cheese (say 4 inches), but about three 
times the height.* The moulds arc placed on reed mats, resting 
on slightly inclined slaljs made of slate, cement, or other hard 
material, and having a gutter near the outer edge. The curd 
remains in the moulds about 24 to even 48 hours, according to 
* Practice differs considerably at this stage of the process. Some makers prefer 
to add new curd from time to time, as flic first sliriiiks in consequence of the 
drainaije of the wlicy : others prefer hif;li moulds and putting as much curd in 
them at first us will allow fur probable tihriukage. 
