150 
British Dairy Farming. 
the time of ripeness. In the one case it is creamy in consistency, 
and in the other it is firm, but salvy and unctuous. At the same 
time, if Camembert is subjected to refinement in an apartment 
which is too warm, it also is liable to become thin or creamy in 
\hepdte, or flesh. It may be observed that ripeness in both cheeses 
proceeds from the crust. When the ripening commences, if 
the cheese is cut, a change in the pate will be observed imme- 
diately under the crust, and this change proceeds day by day 
until it reaches the centre, converting what was previously raw 
curd into cheese. There are many French amateurs who prefer 
Brie before it is wholly ripe. When cut, it oozes next to the 
crust at the top and the bottom, while the centre layer remains 
firm in consistence as well as defective in flavour. The same 
fact may be observed in a partially-ripe Camembert, the top 
and bottom layers being unctuous and perfect, whereas the 
centre is still partially-converted curd. Camembert is the only 
leading soft cheese which is made in a deep mould, and which 
is not turned soon after filling ; nor is the curd all put in at the 
same time, for there are usually four periods of filling — the 
time between each filling being occupied by the cheese in 
draining. In visiting the large Brie and Camembert makers, 
who, upon the introduction of Parisian friends, afforded me every 
assistance which English introductions could not have obtained, 
I noted the variations in the systems adopted by each. The 
French authors, as well as the English, have written very wide 
of the mark in giving the necessary details of manufacture. It 
is quite impossible to say that any temperature is correct, that 
any special quantity of rennet should be used, or that the curd 
should come in a specified time. The practice of a particular 
maker can be noted, but it does not follow that this practice 
is adopted with success. The practical conclusion one arrives 
at, after experimenting with each system, is that the maker 
must ascertain for himself what system will enable hin^ to do 
the best with his milk, and the means at his command. I found 
a teniperature ranging in the milk when set for curd at from 
80 to 90, graduating towards 86 degrees, while the curd was 
brought in from li to 4 hours. The makers seem to have a 
certain control over their operations, especially where milking 
is conducted three times a day, and the milk is set for cheese 
every time without the necessity of heating. Where, as I 
observed was the case, the evening's milk was skimmed in the 
morning for butter-making, and added to the milk of the 
morning for the production of a half-fat cheese, the curd was 
not brought under from 6 to 7 hours, the rennet in every case 
being heavily diluted with water, and the greatest care taken 
to prevent the rising of the cream. Except in the Coulommiers 
