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Dairying  in  Denmark. 
skim-milk  imitation  of  it  is  frequently  made  on  Danish  farms, 
and  is  known  as  “ Appetit  ost ” (“Appetite-cheese.”)  Whey- 
cheese  proper  is  essentially  a product  of  Norway  and  Sweden, 
where  it  is  largely  made,  as  also  is  a much  appreciated  pungent 
cheese  made  from  skimmed  goats’  milk.  Mrs.  Nielson  has 
devised  a means  of  combining  the  excellencies  of  the  true  whey- 
cheese  with  a certain  amount  of  richness  in  quality  and 
piquancy  in  flavour,  by  adding  to  the  whey  a proportion  of 
cream  taken  off  goats’  milk.  This  cream  having  been  added  to 
the  whey,  the  mixture  is  poured  into  shallow  open  pans,  and 
slowly  evaporated  by  being  heated  nearly  to  boiling-point  on 
the  hot  plate  of  the  cooking  stove,  and  continually  stirred  to 
prevent  the  least  suspicion  of  burning.  Each  pan  requires  the 
undivided  attention  of  one  girl  until  the  whey  has  evaporated 
to  such  an  extent  that  only  a syrupy  mass  is  left,  when 
Mts.  Nielson  devotes  her  personal  attention  to  the  most  critical 
part  of  the  process,  as  indeed  she  does  in  the  case  of  all  the 
products  of  her  dairy.  After  gradual  cooling,  accompanied  by 
continual  stirring,  the  whey-cheese  appears  as  a more  or  less 
brown  and  pasty  mass,  which  has  to  be  well  worked  with  a 
wooden  pestle  in  a large  wooden  bowl,  to  prevent  the  sugar  of 
milk  from  forming  large  crystals.  This  is  the  laborious  part  of 
the  process,  and  each  of  the  girls  in  the  dairy  takes  a short  turn 
at  it,  working  with  a will  to  make  the  mass  as  smooth  in  the 
grain  as  possible.  When  quite  cold  and  sufficiently  worked, 
the  whey-cheese  is  transferred  to  a mould,  which  is  here  a 
rectangular  box  ; this  is  then  subjected  to  pressure  for  about 
twenty  hours,  when  the  cheese  is  taken  out  and  trimmed,  being 
then  transferred  to  the  curing-room,  where  it  remains  for  one  or 
two  weeks,  according  to  circumstances,  after  which  it  is  sent, 
like  the  other  products  of  the  dairy,  into  Copenhagen,  for  sale 
at  Mrs.  Nielson’s  shop. 
The  commercial  aspect  of  this  dairy  may  be  briefly  noticed. 
As  already  hinted,  Mr.  Nielson  himself  takes  no  part  in  the 
dairying  operations,  and  originally  had  no  faith  in  their  success. 
H is  wife  therefore  began  by  buying  from  him  the  milk  at  what 
he  regarded  as  a remunerative  price  ; and  this  plan  has  been 
followed  ever  since,  except  that  now,  as  she  buys  a large  quantity 
of  milk  from  surrounding  farms,  she  pays  her  husband  no  more 
and  no  less  than  any  other  purveyor  of  the  raw  material  to  the 
dairy.  Last  June  the  price  was  about  5 d.  per  gallon,  which  is 
very  moderate  for  the  neighbourhood  of  the  capital  ; but  it  must 
be  remembered  that  then  the  price  of  butter  was  very  low,  as, 
indeed,  it  usually  is,  speaking  comparatively,  at  that  season  of 
the  year.  This,  then,  is  the  prime  cost  of  the  milk. 
The  cost  of  manufacture,  which  is  the  next  element  in  the 
