Cheshire Cheese. 
107 
through a sieve placed upon the " cheese-ladder " over the cheese- 
tub. When the whole is thus collected, some few bubbles are 
invariably found floating on the surface ; these are skimmed off 
and passed through the sieve to break them. 
One of the most important points now to be attended to is the 
heat of the milk preparatory to coagulation, as the milk, if at a 
proper temperature, should now be ready to " set together," that 
is, to receive the rennet. This heat is rarely tested by any other 
thermometer than that of the dairymaid's hand ; some may, and 
I have no doubt do, determine it pretty correctly, but cannot 
always. 
In consequence of the changes in the weather it is difficult even 
for an experienced dairymaid to know at all times what propor 
tion of the evening's milk should be warmed ; she is therefore 
cautious not to warm too much, until the morning's milk is added 
and the consequent heat ascertained. If it be deemed too cool, a 
little of the evening's milk which has been reserved is then warmed, 
so as to produce the heat required ; but w-hen none has been re- 
served, the necessary quantity taken from the tub after the admix- 
ture of the two milkings is warmed for that purpose. Little is 
known amongst the farmers or dairymaids as to the precise heat 
which is best. I have seldom heard the subject named, except by 
a vague comparison that such and such dairies were made colder or 
tvarmer than others. I am acquainted with some farmers whose 
wives are said to have a peculiar method of their own, and who, 
I believe, obtain a high price for their cheese in the Manchester 
market ; chiefly from the tendency of the cheese to green mould. 
I know little of the system which these parties adopt, but I under- 
stand they make their cheese cold" — that is, set the milk toge- 
ther at a low temperature ; and I am also inclined to think they 
use less salt than others. I have not solicited the privilege of pry- 
ing into the mysteries pursued in these dairies, nor could I expect 
to have been so indulged if I had, especially if they had supposed 
it was for publication. It is said these parties get a greater price 
for their cheese than many of their neighbours, which I have no 
reason to doubt ; and I think, from what I have seen, they make 
quite as great a quantity per cow. But the real price obtained, 
and the precise quantity made in any particular dairy, is seldom 
known beyond the farmer's own family and the factor. 
I ought, perhaps, to state that I have tasted some of these 
cheeses, and find them generally very good, fair toasters, and with- 
out colouring ; but in some I have detected a slight sourness : from 
this cause, or, what is more probable, from too little salt being 
used, the cheese will not keep long before decomposition takes 
place. To the farmer this would only be of consequence in the 
event of his not being able to sell the article at the time he wished. 
