20 
KALEEBAH. 
with ruined castles, mementoes of the past domi- 
nion of the Arabs. We saw some of the Troglo- 
dytes coming from under-groand now and then, and 
pausing to look at us. Their dress is a simple 
barracan, or blanket-mantle, thrown around them ; 
few indulge in the luxury of a shirt; and they go 
armed with a great thick stick terminating in a 
hook. They look cleanly and healthy in spite of 
their burrowing life, but are fox-like in character 
as in manners, and bear a reputation for dishonesty. 
A little after mid-day we descried afar off the 
village of Kaleebah, which is built above-ground, 
and occupies a most commanding position on fi 
bold mountain-top. It remained in sight a-head a 
long time, cheating us with an appearance of near- 
ness. The inhabitants resemble, in all respects, their 
mole-brethren, and occupy themselves chiefly in cul- 
tivating olives and barley. Government exacts 
from them two imposts — one special, of a hundred 
and fifty mahboubs on the olive-crops ; and one 
general, of five hundred mahboubs. We passed the 
village at length, and encamped an hour beyond. 
Here were the last olive-groves which were to cheer 
our eyes for many a long month — many a long- 
year, maybe. Their dark masses covered the swells 
right and left, and near at hand isolated trees formed 
pleasant patches of shadow. 
We left our camping-ground at length next 
day, having overcome the obstinate sluggishness of 
the blacks, and marched nearly nine hours. The 
