NIGHT AND DAY TRAVELLING. 
47 
througli the thick darkness. The Germans, who 
were encamped, had their tents carried away, whilst 
we who were in motion found ourselves compelled 
to stop and crouch under the bellies of our camels 
until the morning broke, and the hurricane had 
spent its force. The cold was intense, and our people 
complained bitterly. More than once, indeed, the 
thermometer was down to freezing-point whilst we 
were traversing the plateau ; and one morning the 
desert was covered with a shining frost. 
Although we became accustomed to the desolate 
appearance of this district by degrees, we counted 
eagerly the days and hours that brought us nearer 
the confines of Fezzan. Every night's incidents 
w^ere the same. On we went, nodding drowsily 
on our camels, sometimes dropping off into a sound 
sleep, variegated by a snatch of pleasant dreams. 
But these indulgences are dangerous. I was more 
than once on the point of falling off. By day, few 
objects of interest presented themselves : linnets 
and finches fluttered here and there upon the rare 
bushes, whilst swallows joined the caravan, and 
skimmed round and round for hours among the 
camels, almost brushing the faces of the drivers. 
Lizards glanced and snakes writhed across the path. 
We started three wadan or mouflon, churlish 
animals, fond of such solitudes. As to the birds, 
our people say they do not drink in winter, and in 
summer leave the Hamadah altogether. Four- 
fifths of the surface were utterly barren. Little 
