78 
RECEPTION AT MOURZUK. 
liuffi had come out to meet me ; but having taken 
a different gate we crossed, and I arrived on my 
camel at his house, and found it empty. My veil 
being down in the streets I was recognised by no 
one. The acting Governor had arranged to meet 
me with twenty horsemen, but I had taken them 
all quite unawares. The letters forwarded request- 
ing us to make a halt in the suburbs, and then ad- 
vance slowly in " holiday costume," for the sake of 
effect, had not reached me. However, they had 
hoisted the Ottoman flag on the castle, in honour of 
our expected arrival, — a compliment that had not 
before been paid to strangers, and one never offered 
at Tripoli. 
Our German friends arrived shortly afterwards, 
and we all had a very hospitable reception from 
Mr. Gagliuffi, with whom we lodged. A few calls 
were made upon us in the evening, but we were 
glad enough to seek our beds. Next day the chief 
people of the city, the Kady and other dignitaries, 
began early to visit us. When we had exchanged 
compliments with them, we went in full European 
dress to wait on the acting Pasha. We found him 
to be a very quiet, unassuming man, who gave us 
a most kind and gentlemanlike reception, equal 
to anything of the kind of Tripoli. He is a Turk, 
and recognised me as having been before at Mour- 
zuk. We had coffee, pipes, and sherbet made of 
oranges. Afterwards we visited the Treasurer, who 
also gave us coffee, and was very civil ; and finally 
