490 
FOREST AND STREAM. 
[Dec. i6, 1899. 
matter. Then there will arise Private John Allen, and 
eke Mr. Cockran, with Messrs. Tawney, Clarke and many 
others Avho can talk and think and spin a merry quip with 
any that shall offer. This will be one of the best things 
of the session. 
By the way, I observe that Congressman Tawney, of 
Minnesota, has been selected as the party whip, charged 
with the duty of rounding up all members who would 
rather sit in the cloak rooms and listen to John Allen tell' 
stories than sit at their desks on the floor of the House 
and hearken to exceeding great oratory. Mr. Tawney is 
a fine-looking man, and has a nice little way with him ; 
but what shall be said of his record? Was it not he who 
forsook the gang at il o'clock, the same merely in the 
shank of the evening, and retired to bed, upon the trip 
south from Cass Lake, upon the plea that he was putting 
his sons to sleep And was not one Fred Stephenson, a 
tall man and very husky, the same a lumberman from 
Menommee, appointed sergeant-at-arms to hale forth the 
said Congressman Tawney and bring him before the bar 
of the House there assembled ? Marry, it much doth seem 
that this Stephenson were a fitter whip than Congressman 
Tawney, for that if need be he can Jjo.dily car&y forth 
any who shall be recalcitrant. ' 
.^r. -r. E. Hough. 
480 Caxton Building, Chicago, III. 
Three Weeks in Northern Maine. 
All of the readers of the Forest and Stream who 
have fished and hunted in the Maine woods know what 
it is to anticipate a three weeks' trip there, especially 
those who are '■chained to business" the balance of the 
year. I had passed through all the various stages of an- 
ticipation from a simple desire in January to the desper- 
ate encounter (in my dream) with a wounded bull moose, 
which charged down on me with mane bristling and eyes 
blgzmg, and my life was only saved by my wife inserting 
her elbow between my fourth and fifth ribs and shout- 
ing in my ear, "What is the matter with you? Are you 
dreaming about Maine again?" This five nights before 
1 was to start on my trip. Well, I guess the majority of 
you have tramped the old familiar haunts in dreamland— 
haA^e caught your monster trout, shot your giant moose 
with antlers like the branches of an oak tree, only to 
awaken and find yourself in a great state of excitement, 
and tired from the imaginary chase. 
On Oct. 6, 1899, at To'clock P. M., I met in the Grand 
Central depot four friends, all lovers of rod and gun, 
who were to accompany me on this annual trip to Maine. 
We had just time to bid our wives and friends good-by, 
when with words of "Good luck," "I hope you get your 
moose," singing in our ears we boarded the train for 
Botson. When we reached Boston and had transferred 
our luggage to the B. & M. depot, we found the time 
table had been changed and we had barely time enough 
to procure tickets, check baggage, scald our throats with 
a cup of hot coffee, and we were moving again. It was 
a case of ''Off agin, on agin, gone agin, five of us," 
Our destination was Chamberlain Lake, via Moose- 
head Lake, and our guides were to meet us at Greenville. 
We arrived at Bangor the next morning about daylight 
and had breakfast in the station. As we had to wait 
nearly an hour for the P., B. & A, train we took a walk 
around the city in the fresh morning air. Soon we 
boarded the train for Greenville, and at Milo Junction we 
were surprised to meet two of our guides, who had waited 
for this train. There were handshakings and pleasant 
.greetings. An hour more brought us to the end of our 
railroad journey and to the steamboat dock in Green- 
ville. Here we met the rest of the guides and the cook 
with tents and provisions. We all boarded the little 
steamer and were soon steaming awaj"^ up the lake at a 
good rate of speed. The captain was a very affable and 
accommodating man and seems to be a favorite cap- 
tain with the guides. There was a cold north wind blow- 
ing down the lake, but I remained on deck nearly all the 
day, for this was my first trip up the lake and I was de- 
lighted with its scenery. About 1 o'clock we arrived at 
the Kineo House, which is half way up the lake, and 
here we all had dinner. Just above the hotel on the lake 
is Profile Mountain, where you see distinctly silhouetted 
zigainst the sky the profile of an Indian. To the east we 
saw old Katahdin wearing a cap of snow and towering 
to the heavens far above the surrounding mountains.. 
On our way up the lake we stopped twice to let hunt- 
ing parties go ashore with their guides. They simply 
dropped their canoes over the side, loaded in all their 
baggage and pushed off, while those on board bade them 
"Good-by" and "Good luck," and we passed on tip the 
lake, while their canoes grew smaller and smaller in the 
distance and finally faded away in the shore line. Later 
in the afternoon we reached the northeast carry and had 
our baggage taken to the Winnegamock House by that 
famous horse railroad there. It may not be pretty, but 
it does the work. Here we changed our clothes, packed 
our grips and sleeping bags, placed our good clothes in 
our trunks and expressed them around to Grindstone on 
the East Branch, for we had decided that when we went 
from the Allegash we would go down Chamberlain, 
Telos, Grand Lake and the East Branch to Grindstone, 
and it would make our home trip more pleasant and 
treat us to new scenes. As we emerged from the hotel in 
our hunting togs we had a businesslike look. 
While we are together let me introduce you to our 
party, which consists of R. W. Haff and guide, Henry 
Soucie; C. E. Brown and guide, Joe Pelkey; W. Burr 
and guide, Thefolia Soucie; C. F. Lehman and guide, 
Jack McNally; the visiter and guide, Gilbert Joy. My 
guide, by the way, is a nephew of Jack Darling, one of 
Maine's most famous Indian guides. Our guides were all 
first-class, the m^ost careful and conscientious lot of men 
we could possibly have found. Our trip was a trying 
one for guides, as very little rain had fallen for two 
months, and all streams were very low, and this made 
dozens of hard and difficult carries. Their powers of en- 
durance were simph^ marvelous. I never heard one 
word of complaint. Three of the guides did not smoke, 
chew tobacco or drink liquor of any kind, and only one 
would taste liqnor at all. I think this is quite remarka- 
ble for men who are brought up in the woods and have 
to labor hard and long at the coarsest of work, logging 
in the forests winter, driving log? all the spring. 
sometimes working in the rain all day on the drive, 
soaked to the skin, and when it gets too dark to work 
he starts for the "wangum," which may be five miles 
away, and he has to pick his way through the forest in 
the dark, through slush and snow a foot deep; and it is 
10 o'clock at night before he gets a mouthful to eat and 
turns in to sleep in his wet clothes. To any one wishing 
to employ a guide I will personally vouch for the five 
named here, and will be pleased to give their address. 
I have digressed somewhat, but I have a great big warm 
place in my heart for Maine guides. 
We loaded our canoes and baggage on a wagon, and 
made the carry to the Penobscot House, on the West 
Branch. Here several years ago a white man was shot 
and killed by an Indian in a row over a game of cards. 
After the white man had struck the Indian in the face 
with his hand the Indian went to a lamp that was on a 
bracket near a window, turned >the bracket round so the 
lamplight shone full in the window, turned up the wick, 
walked out into the hallway, picked up a gun that was 
standing there, walked outside and to the window where 
he had arranged the lamp, took deliberate aim at the 
white man and shot hira dead. He irnrnediately left 
'i 
I 
LAKE AND MQUKTAiaSr. 
the country and has never been captured, and as far as 
I could learn -n(y great, atternpt had ever b,eefi iHade to 
capture him. , 
The next day was Sunday^ so we intended to take mat- 
ters leisurely. V/e ate breakfast about 7 o'clock and then 
made a start down the stream in our canoes, intending to 
make Cheesuncook Lake that night. The morning was 
bright and balmy, the foliage on the trees was in the 
height of its autumnal coloring, the river stretched out 
Hke a serpentine mirror, reflecting the foliage along its 
bank. On its surface were dancing nine canoes, six be- 
longing to our party and three to another; and when we 
formed in line, and made our start down the river, it' 
was a picturesque and beautiful sight. Brother Haff, 
who is an expert player on the concertina, brought forth 
his instrument and soon the woods were echoing back 
strains from popular airs. Again, some familiar air 
would be played and Brother Burr's sweet tenor voice 
would float out over the water, to be joined when the 
chorus was reached by Brother Brown with his rich bari- 
tone and Brother Lehman with his deep bass. The 
guides were entranced, delighted, for, as they said, it 
was seldom that they ever heard any music. The hours 
passed quickly, and before we were aware it was I 
o'clock, so we went ashore and had coffee and a hasty 
lunch and resumed our journey. Soon after passing 
Rocky Rips I sighted a large bull moose standing in 
the water about 500 yards ahead. As the season was not 
open yet, no attempt was made to get near him; but we 
sat in the canoes and admired him, and several invita- 
tions were extended to him by the boys to meet them 
one week from that day on Mud Pond at 2 P. M. and 
lunch on .30-30S. Time was getting precious, so we 
started on down stream and our friend with the antlers 
strode leisurely into the forest. 
From this time on we paddled very industriously and 
reached the Cheesuncook Lake House about 5 o'clock. 
This rustic and ancient hotel is beautifully situated on 
quite high ground overlooking this pretty little lake, and 
here I saw the most grand and gorgeous sunset it was 
ever my good fortune to witness. In the near distance 
was that group of mountains of which Katahdin is the 
towering center, and it was snow-capped. As the sun 
descended, the low land and lake were covered with a 
deep purple glow, which was lighter and brighter as it 
reached up the mountain side, and when the snow cap 
was reached it was a beautiful pink. This was con- 
stantly changing, the deep shadows finally climbing to 
the top and dispersing the bright colors, until all was 
lost in the shadows of night. We stood for some time 
spellbound and filled with silent worship. 
Next morning we were up and breakfasted at 4 o'clock 
and started up Umbazookskus Stream. About 10 o'clock 
we reached the carry, which is made partly on sleds and 
partly on wagon. This carry is about three miles long, 
and the price is $5 per canoe, baggage included. We ac- 
companied the first load to Mud Pond, and while we were 
waiting for the second the guides put np a tent and we 
had a lunch. It commenced to rain and kept it up as a 
drizzling nuisance all the afternoon. We crossed Mud 
Pond and the guides hauled the canoes down the stream 
which is the outlet, and we walked nearly all the way to 
Chamberlain Lake. This will give you an idea of how 
Jow the water was, for ordinarily one can canoe through 
there without difficulty. Just before we reached Cham- 
berlain we started a herd of deer feeding on some 
meadow land. Several shots were fired, but the distance 
was too great and onl}' misses were scored. It was now 
nearly dark, and the rain was coming down in torrents: 
but we paddled up Chamberlain for about three miles 
and decided to camp for the night. Here the expert- 
ness and thoroughness of our guides were shown, for in 
fifteen minutes' time they had our tent up and a fire 
burning. This was a most disagreeable night. The rain 
did not stop falling until after midnight, yet we Avere dry 
and comfortable in our sleeping bags, which were all that 
could be desired— that is, waterproof arid warin, 
One word about sleeping bags. I have heard consid- 
erable profanity come out of a sleeping bag when the 
occupant wanted to turn over and got caught half way, 
or, when lying on his side, he wished fo draw his feet 
up. and found there was not room for his knees. My 
friend Lehman had a bag that tapered from the head to 
the foot, with no foot room. I have seen him as badly 
twisted in that bag as the Irishman who was a little 
full in the morning and got his trousers on hind side 
before. He started up a ladder, and when near the top 
the ladder broke and Pat fell to the sidewalk. His 
friends ran to him and picked him up, carried him inside 
the building and laid him on some planks. While wait- 
ing for the doctor to come one of Pat's friends says: 
"Pat, are you badly hurted?" Pat looked down toward 
the feet and saw the seat of his trousers in front as he 
replied: "Boys, I don't think any of me bones are bro- 
ken, but I've got a divil of a twist." The kind of sleep- 
ing bag I have been satisfied with is of waterproof duck, 
same width from top to bottom, 7 feet long by 3 feet 
wide. Inside of this I put two bags made to fit, one 
inside the other, made like the ordinary bed quilt of 
tufted cotton. This makes a soft bed to. life Qn, and I 
have never been cold while in it. 
The next morning we were up early, and while the 
head guide canoed across the lake to Chamberlain farm 
for some pork and flour the cook prepared breakfast. 
This was soon over and we started up the lake. About 
two miles further on I saw a small deer feeding on shore. 
As we needed meat for csmp,' four of the boys opened 
fire on him and he fell. Two of the guides went to him. 
and had him dressed in about ten minutes. The distance 
was 250 yards, and all four balls had struck him. This T 
consider fine shooting from a canoe. We canoed on up 
to the head of the lake, where the Allegash Stream flows 
into it; then up the stream about half a mile, and here 
we made our permanent camp. 
After dinner Lehman and I set off with our guides for 
Stream Pond for a hunt. We hunted until dark and 
then started to return to camp over one of the worst o£ 
Maine roads. Friend Lehman was unused to anything 
like this — in fact, it was his first trip to the woods — so 
he came along puffing like a locomotive close behind me. 
He said: "I can set along all right. I watch your feet 
and step where you do." Just then we struck gome slip- 
pery corduroy road and I heard a dull thud, and looked 
back in time to see arms and legs waving in the dark- 
ness. He was soon righted, and as he got near me said: 
"Hall, that was a mean trick you played on me. You 
knew I watched your feet so I could put my foot down 
where you did. I thought I saw you raise both feet at 
the same time and I tried to follow suit, and it nearly killed 
ine. • Hall, ■ don't do that againj"_ I promised and we 
soon reached camp, where a hot biscuit and maple syrup 
eating match was on between Horace the cook and the 
x'arious members of the , party. We joined the hungry 
band and ate with a relish born of our evening's tramp. 
■ It was now near the 15th, and to-morrow we meant 
business. As 'our partj-- was too large to hunt from 
one camp we decided to spHt tip a bit. So Mr. Haff and 
myself, with our guides, started the next day with canoes 
and bag.gage for Allegash Lake, eight miles away. The 
guides took the canoes tip stream, hauling over the 
rocks and gravel bars and carrying around the worist 
places, while we walked an old trail that follows the 
course of the stream. About i o'clock we reached the 
dam. which is near Allegash Lake. I caught a 4-pound 
trout in a deep hole and this we cooked as soon as the 
guides arrived; and how good that meal tasted after 
such a tramp. While we were eating our broiled trout 
friend Burr and his guide came along on their way to 
Otter Pond. They joined in our feast, which was soon 
over, and then we parted to meet a week later. We re- 
sumed our journej'- to the lake and arrived there about 
3 o'clock. We found an old lumber camp there, with 
bunks and a fairly good cook stove, which made the 
place quite cheerful looking. 
After putting all our baggage inside we started tip the 
lake, to look for game. We canoed up to the "Thor- 
oughfare," a pleasant stretch of dead water at the head 
of the lake about one and one-half miles long. Mr. H. 
and his guide were somewhat in advance of us, when I 
saw them stop paddling and we pushed along near them, 
when we saw the cause of their stopping. A fine young 
bull moose had come out on the bank and was. looking 
at them. As we remained quiet he walked leisurely down 
the bank and into the water, where he commenced eat- 
ing lily roots and water grass. He was a fine specimen, 
j-oung and healthy looking, and as sleek as a well 
groomed horse. He had only three small prongs on each 
horn, so he is roaming the Allegash to-day. We watched 
him feeding for at least ten minutes, when he winded us 
^nd commenced to look ngly; with mane bristling, giv- 
ing an occasional grunt he walked out on some meadow 
land. Here three or four deer hoisted their white flags 
and started for timber, and he after them with_ that pe- 
culiar swinging trot. Just at the edge of the timber he 
turned and gave us one defiant look, as much as to say, 
"Who cares for you?" and then plunged into the small 
growth and swept through it like a whirlwind. 
We went on up stream, but did not see any more 
moose that night. The wild ducks here were so tame 
that as they flew past the canoe we could almost hit them 
with the paddle. Near dark a large owl came and 
perched on a tree about 20 feet from the canoe and sur- 
veyed us curiously. By the way, all game up in this 
locality was remarkably tame. Foxes trotted along the 
bank within 25 feet of the canoe and minks would come 
within a few feet and blink their beadlike eyes at us. It 
was evident that most of the game here had never seen 
man before, or at least had not learned that man was its 
deadly enemy. I have seen a deer walk into the road 
in front of me not too feet away, and as long as I stood 
still it would watch me, occasionally stamping one foot 
and advancing toward me two or three steps until we 
tired of it and walked toward her, when she trotted off 
to the woods. W e got back to camp about 8 o'clock, and 
after a nice warm supper retired. 
After this for a week we hunted most industriously. 
During this time we visited Russell, Johnson, Mile and 
Second ponds, always seeing plenty of deer and moose 
every day; but they were cows and calves and spike 
horn bulls. In huntinsr near Johnson Pond we came 
across a notice posted on a large tree to the effect that 
