Bararetta. 
191 
On taking off my hat I received a compliment I did not 
expect. " How like a galdesa " {monkey) he is ! " ex- 
claimed one. This was in allusion to the colour and 
straitness of my hair, but perhaps rather to its short- 
ness, for at that time I wore it cut close to my head. 
Towards noon the " Toib " came to look for his 
present. We gave him two shuka, one kitambi, one 
kikoi ; and in addition put in some needles, ear-rings, 
beads, etc. This did not please him, and a thunder- 
cloud instantly darkened his countenance. " What !" 
said he, " is this all you can give me V Aba Rufat 
resented his covetousness, telling him he was gene- 
rously treated. The man's black looks remained, but 
he said no more. 
Spent some hours in rambling the country here- 
abouts. It is called Kurawa, and is the prettiest dis- 
trict over which we had yet travelled. It stretches 
out far and wide, on all sides, in a grassy plain as 
level as the sea. The soil is of a light, loose, and 
sandy character, is covered with a rich, green sward, 
and is further adorned by a thin shrubbery of 
very pretty evergreen bushes, the. chief of which is 
a species of thorn, in form and growth not unlike 
fir, but not so large. As, in addition to the wild 
herbivorous animals that abound here, it is a cattle- 
grazing district, the grass was very short, giving it the 
appearance of a newly-mown lawn. Here and there 
in low, marshy places, the grass grew long and rank, 
but generally it was as above described. This gives 
to the district a remarkably light and open aspect, 
and makes it exceedingly pleasant. As you look 
over these charming plains you do not realize the 
fact that you are in a country of savages : all is so 
