Journey to Kilima Njaro : the Start, 297 
The cattle devour it ravenously, and according to the 
Gallas, they really thrive upon it, so that it must 
supply them with more nourishment than what is con- 
tained in mere water. Oxen are so fond of it, and 
know it so well, that they resort to it of their own 
accord, and wait impatiently lowing before it till 
some one comes to clear away for them the thorny 
barrier. Such a plant in a cattle-feeding country, 
liable to drought, is an inestimable boon. The Gallas 
themselves eat of it to relieve thirst, but they say 
that if largely partaken of by the human being it 
brings on pain in the stomach. 
Large herds of cattle had very recently been pas- 
tured over the whole of these districts, the indications 
of which were found everywhere. Now not a herd of 
cattle was to be seen; no lowing of oxen, no bleating 
of goats and sheep was heard; all was deserted. The 
old man who had overtaken us at Ngoni was exceed- 
ingly civil and communicative, and he told us how 
the change had taken place. The Masai had visited 
the country less than a month before. The old man 
in telling us the story grew excited and quite elo- 
quent. He said, The first time the Masai came was 
about a year ago. They did not obtain much then, 
for we gave it them right and left, and they left a 
good number of their men dead upon these hills and 
in these valleys. Their shields," continued the old 
man, "did them good service, or not many of them 
would have left Duruma alive. It's a chance for an 
arrow to pierce a Masai shield so as to do any damage, 
but, my word, you could hear our arrows strik- 
ing their shields, one after another, Hke rain. But we 
surrounded them, gave it them on all sides, and they 
