348 Wanderings in Eastern Africa. 
three or four thousand feet in height. They are 
said to yield rich iron ores, and the people supply 
axes and hoes to the Wataveta, Wachaga, Wakahe, 
Waarusha, etc., the iron of which is smelted and the 
forging done by the Waguena themselves. The 
people are identical with the Wapare, in habits, in 
language and in blood. The several tribes, however, 
would seem to keep pretty much to themselves. 
On the 30th we set our faces towards Taveta. The 
country northward rose very gently from the level of 
Jipe, till in the distance the horizon was broken by a 
pyramidal hill or two. In the north-west, hill rose 
above hill till they were lost in the clouds. Behind 
them all was what appeared to be one vast mountain 
mass, its head enveloped in dense clouds, and its 
eastern and western ridges falling in steep slopes to 
the plain. It filled almost one half of the horizon. 
This, I said to myself, must be the mighty Kilima 
Njaro. The weather had been too cloudy hitherto 
even to see so much of it as this, and I had kept my 
eyes open to no purpose. 
Tofiki asked the guide what that mlila mku ! 
MRU! {great! GREAT I mountain) could be, 
while Mange, seeing nothing of it, remarked, The 
Mkugenzi has been practising some sorcery, to hide 
Kilima Njaro from the Mzungu ; we ought to have 
seen it long ere this." But I knew the mountain 
before us could be no other than Kilima Njaro. 
Our course to-day was due north, having Jipe on 
our left, and the small hump-backed hill of yesterday 
on our right. The way led through tracts of dense 
grass, now over much clearer plots, and now through 
close and thorny jungle. The paths were innumerable, 
