To Moche. 
373 
as though he were used to such greetings. Karibu, 
mange" (come near), I said ; ^'Starehe," he replied ; 
" Karibu wewe " (come near thyself) ; and then to 
relieve himself laughed outright. He rose, kept me 
at arm's length for a moment, walked round me once 
or twice, as a man might do round a fallen lion to 
ascertain whether it were dead, and finding that I 
had neither claws nor fangs, nor yet a disposition to 
spring at his neck, he shook off restraint, and made 
himself at home " immediately. He entered the 
tent, and began questioning me with all his might. 
What was this } what was that 1 what was the other } 
in endless succession. I got no rest till towards 
evening, when I was allowed a little time to wash and 
change my clothes ; but I owed this rather to curiosity 
than to any disposition to grant me a respite. The 
chief was anxious to see the operation. Of course I 
had no privacy. Turning up my sleeves and tucking 
in my shirt collar, the whiteness of my skin excited 
great astonishment ; then my hair and the combing of 
it, my beard, my features, etc., all became objects of 
surprise, and perhaps of admiration. " Aye ! What 
hair ! what a beard ! what a skin ! what a man ! but 
he is no man, he is Erua" (a god). 
I called for something to eat, but was told I must 
wait till the chief gave us some food, or till he gave 
us permission to cook. However, thinking this rather 
too straight-laced, I ordered what there was to be 
brought on immediately, as I had taken nothing 
to speak of since yesterday. A plate of meat and 
cold rice was served up, and no fault was found with 
me for eating it without permission ! The people 
crowded round me to see the operation, and roared 
