Kilima Njaro — Second Attempt. 421 
dense a forest we scarcely got a glimpse of the sun. 
On ! on ! up ! up ! we urged our way till the sun 
was fast declining to his rest. The rate at which 
we walked tried our utmost strength. Reaching 
the stream which we had crossed on the former oc- 
casion, we paused. The guide sank from sheer ex- 
haustion ; Tofiki looked fatigued ; and I confess I was 
weary. The stream here was much smaller than at 
the part where we had met with it before, for this 
time we had come upon it at a point much higher up 
the mountain. The water was so cold that I could 
only drink it in sips ; it made my teeth ache. As- 
cending the steep face of the mountain on the other 
side of this stream, we encamped in a wood, com- 
posed of broom, from twenty to thirty feet in height. 
In a few moments the Wachaga put up a long shed, 
and did everything we asked them to do without a 
murmur. Without a scrap of clothing they ran 
about in the cold, and never gave in till the work 
was done. The air was very sharp and frosty. I, 
who had clothing, felt this ; and it is a wonder to me 
how the others bore it so well. 
I made up for myself an excellent bed of the fine 
tops of the trees and moss combined, the latter being 
so abundant on the ground as to yield beneath the 
feet like a feather bed. Fires were made large enough 
to roast an ox, still we could keep ourselves warm 
only on one side. Dividing my blankets between 
myself and the men, we rolled ourselves up for the 
night. 
The next morning, at 5.30, the thermometer, placed 
on a log of wood beneath the shed, read 37'' 30' 
The hoar-frost was as thick on the leaves as I have 
