Kilima Njaro— Second Attempt, 429 
the ridge which runs between the two summits, but it 
is not the one that is seen from below. It rises into 
two mounds in the centre, but is otherwise smooth 
and regular. The distance between Kibo and Ki- 
mawenzi did not appear so great here as it did from 
our camp at Moche, but this may be due to the 
rarefaction of the atmosphere. 
But how was I to reach the patch of snow } There 
was the saddle-ridge before me, and the way to it 
was clear, there being nothing between me and it but 
a smooth, sandy hollow. Gaining its top, I could 
pursue my way down hill to the top of the precipice 
at the bottom of which the patch of snow I was 
aiming at lay ; but would the descent of the precipice 
be practicable } If not, could I reach the topmost 
rim ? I feared not ; for the ascent is so steep and 
rocky, that to climb it would require ladders and 
ropes, with which I was not provided. There remained 
then the direct route to the spot. The ground was 
almost level, but immense detached rocks encumbered 
the way and prevented my seeing what was beyond 
them. However, I determined to take this direction, 
so bade Tofiki " kua heri " (good-bye), telling him 
that I should be back with him before long. I went 
on, but it was hard work, breathing being so difficult 
that I had to pause at every few steps for breath. 
The sensations, too, which came over me at the idea 
of the profound solitude, of standing on heights to 
which no human being had ever before ascended, 
were overpowering. The .situation was appalling, 
there was a grandeur and a magnificence about the 
surroundings which were almost too much for me ; 
instead of exhilarating, they were oppressive. 
