Eastern Chaga and the Lake Chala, 435 
and beating the earth to the tune they were singing ; 
then facing about again and clasping each other as 
before. Both men and women took part in it 
Soon after daybreak of the 31st (August) we were 
ready to leave Moche. Leave-taking, however, oc- 
cupied some time. Going to the court, we found the 
mange, surrounded by his soldiery, waiting for us. I 
expressed a wish to visit eastern Chaga and the lake 
Chala, and the mange consented. Two men were 
selected to be my guides to Msai, and two others, 
who were to go as far as Taveta. At Msai we were to 
obtain guides for Chala ; and Mandara sent a message 
to the chief of that place to supply them. In con- 
clusion, the mange repeated all he had previously said 
regarding his wish for my return to Chaga, reminded 
me that he had given me a list of things that he greatly 
needed, and hoped that I should not disregard it. I 
was next taken to the hut occupied by the ladies, 
that I might take a formal leave of them. I found 
them sitting in suck state ! that is, on the floor ! 
within an ordinary small, cone-shaped dwelling, 
thatched down to the ground — filthy, smoky, and as 
dark as night ! Yet they had not even this residence 
all to themselves, one half of it being occupied by 
cattle; how many I cannot say, for it was too dark to 
see them distinctly. It was some time before I could 
make out the ladies, but by degrees the outlines of 
several developed themselves sufficiently to give me^ 
some idea of what they were like. They were not 
those I had seen before. Their dress was very scant ; 
for ornaments they had thick, heavy pewter bracelets 
on their arms, necklaces of small, red beads, and thin 
iron and copper chain, and anklets of the same 
