476 Wanderings in Eastern Africa. 
ings of lions, and the visit of a rhinoceros, which for 
a long time seemed disposed to upset our party. 
The next morning, as soon as it was light, we 
continued our way. The land rose and fell in long, 
easy waves and troughs, and was overrun by every 
kind of wild animal. In the morning we stood to 
gaze upon an immense rhinoceros, which allowed us 
to approach him within a very short distance. Sud- 
denly, however, as if he liked not the look of us, he 
turned and set off at a brisk trot, amazing me with 
the ease and grace with which he bore off his vast 
bulk upon his short, stiff legs. In the afternoon, 
coming quite unsuspiciously upon a thicket, a large 
hyaena started from it at my very feet. The brute 
was so near me that I might have touched him if 
he had stood ; but the cowardly creature ran away 
before me with his tail between his legs, like a whipped 
cur. At five p.m., in full view of Bura, we turned 
aside and camped. 
On the following day we ought to have reached 
Gnambua, but through the stupidity of our guide we 
unfortunately went astray, came upon the mountains 
far too much to the north, got into difficulties in 
the jungle, and, weary, hungry, thirsty, many out of 
temper, and most dispirited, we had to spend another 
night in the wilderness. Our water was spent, yet 
most of the men complained bitterly of thirst. There 
was a stream at no great distance, and thither some of 
the more courageous of the party proceeded to get 
water for themselves and the rest. On the way they 
met with some Buras, who for some time opposed 
them, insisting that they had no right to the water of 
the country ; but who, upon the promise of a present, 
