MADEIRA. 
5 
mountain, but gradually rising and displaying the rich scene of 
the vineyards, interspersed with the white country residences of 
the merchants, and other rich inhabitants, formed a scene, which 
the pencil only can describe. We rapidly passed the villages of 
Machico and Santa Cruz. On doubling Brazen Head, the town of 
Funchal, with the fort of the Loo, opened full on us. This place 
appears of considerable size, much more so than we afterwards 
found it ; a circumstance owing to the rapid ascent of the hill on 
which it is built, with the whiteness of all the houses, which are 
raised as near the summit as possible, with platforms on the top 
of them. As it was nearly calm, at eleven o'clock Gapt. Weltden 
and I quitted the vessel, and in his boat approached the shore. A 
gun was fired from the Loo fort ; but as it did not speak an in- 
telligible language, we proceeded. A second, loaded with ball, 
came whizzing over us. This we perfectly well knew directed 
us to bring to; accordingly we obeyed, by going to the fort, 
which is built on a rock, and insulated from the land. We were 
there accosted by an officer in bad English, and equally bad 
French, both as unintelligible to us as the first gun. After a 
delay, therefore, of half an hour, we were permitted to proceed to 
the beach. I was struck with the appearance of the fishermen, 
rowing their boats in a perfect state of nakedness ; and the females 
looking out of their windows with a nonchalance, that nothing but 
habit could give. I know that by the custom of hot countries, 
the inferior males go naked; and I have no doubt that habit 
renders such a spectacle perfectly indifferent to the spectators. It 
was, however, the first time I had seen it, and my European 
delicacy revolted at it. 
