BENARES. 
99 
in the armies of the native princes. Our service they dislike, as 
they cannot rise high in it; and trade is chiefly in the hands of 
the Hindoos ; as is the collection of the revenue, and ever has been; 
for even on the conquest of Hindostan by Timour, he found the 
system of finance so complete, that he was necessitated to leave it 
in statu quo. 
But to return to the princes. — On paying a visit to any Asiatic 
prince, an inferior receives from him a complete dress of honour, 
consisting of a khelaut, a robe, a turban, a shield, and sword, with a 
string of jewels to go round the neck. This ceremony was sub- 
mitted to by Lord Cornwallis when at Benares. When Lord Wel- 
lesley visited the upper provinces, he objected to the ceremony as 
too degrading, and determined to appear in the presence of the 
royal family in his uniform, receiving the dresses in trays as a 
present made to him. He had directed Mr. Neave to notify to the 
princes, that my rank, as a British nobleman, was such as to require 
the same etiquette in receiving me. Of course, his will and pleasure 
is a law : and it was arranged accordingly. About nine o'clock, 
Mr. Neave and I set off for Shewalla, the old palace of Cheyt Sing, 
at present occupied by the Begum and her son, Mirza Khorum. It 
is situated in the middle of the town, on the bank of the Ganges, 
and is the place whence that Zemindar escaped, when put under 
an arrest by Mr. Hastings. The two suwarrys united made a very 
handsome show. As I approached the palace, I found the guard 
drawn out to receive me, compared to whom Falstaff's recruits were 
gentlemen. It was intended to do me honour, and I felt the com- 
pliment. On entering the gate a salute was fired. We here 
quitted our palanquins, and perceived the prince in the Dewan 
VOL. I. o 
