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BENARES. 101 
at that moment, most painfully struck me. Could they do other- 
wise than recollect that those palaces were once theirs, and that 
there they reigned in the plenitude of Eastern power ; that now, 
alas, how great the contrast ! the head of the family blinded in 
his old age by the villainy of a subject, was with difficulty able to 
procure a moderate subsistence; while they themselves were thank- 
ful for the use of the palace of a zemindar, and owed their bread to 
the benevolence of a nation on which they had no claim. Nothing 
but the hope of future prospects could brighten such a scene, and 
they seemed to entertain it. The Begum earnestly addressed me, 
begging that, whether in Europe or India, I would remember with 
kindness her son, who was placed beside me. She had made the 
same request to Lord Wellesley, in a more solemn manner; she 
put her hand through the purdah, and taking his, placed it on her 
son's^ imploring his protection. 
J now gave a hint that I wished to retire, and the dresses, kc. 
were produced in trays, and laid at my feet. They could not be re- 
fused, and consequently I accepted them by raising my hand to my 
head, and inclining my body : Mr. Neave had some shawls thrown 
over his shoulders. On our departure, paun * and roses were pre- 
sented, but we were spared the attar, which is every way detestable. 
The prince conducted me to the bottom of the steps, and took his 
leave in terms nearly similar to his mother's request. I had deli- 
vered an additional nazur of two mohurs to each. Mr. Neave had 
done the same. I omitted to mention one circumstance of Oriental 
* Paun is the areca-nut wrapt up in the leaf of a species of pepper, with a little fine 
lime; this is frequently chewed by the natives, and is invariably presented by them to 
all visitors. 
