BENARES. 113 
Company's service is the finest in the world, though its advantages 
are much diminished. A young man can maintain himself on his 
allowance, from the moment he enters India, and he is certain, 
ultimately, of procuring a handsome competence. 
March 1^. — At six in the morning, accompanied by Mr. Neave 
and Mr. Salt, I proceeded to Ramnagur to visit the Rajah of Benares. 
We rode, and to avoid the streets of the town, took a small circuit, 
which made the distance about six miles. The castle is situated on 
the opposite side of the river, to cross which we made use of one of 
the Rajah's boats that was in attendance, sending our horses back 
to Secrole. We found his elephants and palanquins in waiting at 
the waters edge, which conveyed us to the gardens, about a mile 
inland. As he was still too unwell to attend us, he sent his brother 
to do the honours. The garden is square, and laid out perfectly in 
the Dutch style, with formal walks and dipt hedges, and the 
flowers in regular compartments. At the south-end was a large and 
handsome building of stone, consisting of verandahs with stone 
pillars and small rooms on the sides. It was fantastically painted of 
different colours, which however had a pleasing effect. The view 
from the terrace on the summit was fine. The garden formed a 
good foreground ; beyond, was the river, widening with an exten- 
sive curve, and on its elevated bank the whole town of Benares. 
Opposite to this house is a door leading to the tank, and at the 
angles of the garden are handsome round summer-houses, with 
domes, elevated above the wall, which is of a considerable height, 
The Rajah often retires here with his women, and we observed many 
swings and other play-things of eastern idleness. Beyond the door- 
way, the tank immediately presents itself, and is one of the most 
