BENARES. 117 
We returned to the Dewan Khanah, and perceiving that the Rajah was 
much exhausted with the exertion of sitting up, I soon gave the hint 
that I wished to retire; twenty trays of shawls, kheenkhabs,* together 
with one of jewels, were tendered to me: to Mr. Neave nine trays 
of the former articles; to Mr. Salt five : we each chose a pair of 
shawls worth about twenty rupees, and declined the rest. The cere- 
mony of attar was then gone through, and we retired, leaving him 
to his repose. His brother accompanied us to the outer gate, where 
we again employed the Rajah's palanquins to convey us to the water 
side, and in one of his boats we proceeded towards Benares. 
At a gaut above the town we landed Mr. Neave, where his carriage 
was in waiting. Mr. Barton had promised to send his to anothei? 
below, whither I wished to go by water to view the town. 
The river forms here a very fine sweep of about four miles in, 
length. On the external side of the curve, which is constantly the 
most elevated, is situated the holy city of Benares. It is covered 
with buildings to the water's edge, and the opposite shore being, as 
usual, extremely level, the whole may be beheld at once. From 
passing through the streets, or even from viewing it from the 
minars, I could have formed no conception of its beauty. Innume- 
rable pagodas of every size and shape occupy the bank, and even 
have incroached on the river. Uniformly built of stone, and of the 
most solid workmanship, they are able to resist the torrents, which 
in the rainy season beat against them. Several are painted, others 
gilded, and some remain of the colour of the stone. They gener- 
ally have domes, often finished with the trident of Maha-deva. 
Gauts are very frequent for the convenience of ablution ; and 
* Silks embroidered with gold. 
