118 
BENARE S. 
wherever the houses approach the river, they are necessarily built 
thirty feet high, of large stones, before they reach the level of the 
street above. The contrast between these elevated masses of solid 
masonry, and the light domes of the pagodas, is singular and 
pleasing. Trees occasionally overhang the walls, and the thousands 
of people constantly either bathing, or washing linen in the water, 
add not a little to this most extraordinary scene. None of the 
drawings that I have seen give me the least idea of it. Land is here 
of prodigious value, as the nearer to the river the more holy. 
Pious Hindoos think it a work of great merit to form gauts, or 
build temples, on its banks. 1 had frequent occasion to regret that 
many buildings remained unfinished, in consequence of the death 
of the builders before they were completed : not only superstition 
operates here, but the circumstance, that were it finished by his heir, 
the whole of the merit, as well as credit, would go to the original 
founder. A law similar to the Bishop's bill in Ireland would have 
a good effect, obliging the executors to finish the undertaking. It 
is a pity that any thing should prevent this noble city from being 
brought to that perfection of which it is capable. I felt myself 
sufficiently a Hindoo when viewing the lofty minars, to wish that 
hereafter Government may restore the spot to its original owners, 
and remove this cruel eye-sore from the holy city. At Raje gaut 
I could perceive no carriage, but thinking it might be upon the hill, 
I proceeded thither and dismissed the boat. My hircarrah led the 
way, and, as I supposed, knew where it was waiting. I could ask 
him no questions, from my ignorance of the language, and Mr. Salt 
was in the same predicament. After walking through the close and 
narrow streets of Benares, half dead with heat and dust, I found it 
