370 
CHELUMBRUM 
high state of cultivation. At four, we arrived at Wydenathgood)^, 
a very large and flourishing open town, with a large, and I should 
suppose rich, pagoda; for the suwarry with which the Brahmins 
met me was very handsome. The elephants were covered with 
flags, and the nautch-girls were gaily dressed. The noise of the 
tom-toms was however insufferable ; I therefore hastened out of the 
town as fast as possible, after having received their nazur of limes, 
and a present of oranges and bananas. By the road we met a 
messenger from Mr. Campbell, inviting us to his bungelow near 
Chelumbrum. Soon afterwards, in passing a considerable village, 
a nazur of fruit was presented by the son of the Zemindar, his father 
being away. 
We reached Mr. Campbell's by half after ten ; the distance eigh- 
teen miles. Tea and various other refreshments were ready, and 
our host was afterwards so obliging as to conduct us to the cele- 
brated pagodas of Chelumbrum, which were illuminated, the 
Brahmins having notice of my visit. The masses of deep gloom, 
partially relieved by the light of the torches, had a very solemn 
effect. The gateway by which we entered had lately been repaired by 
a devout widow, at the enormous expense of forty thousand pagodas. 
The side pieces of the gateway were each of one stone, forty feet 
high, and ornamented with carving. The whole of the architecture 
had a more ancient appearance than Tanjore or Ramiseram. Facing 
the entrance they were erecting a portico of one hundred fluted 
pillars, in some parts three, in others five deep : the roof was not 
yet laid on. We then proceeded, in a winding direction, to the 
entrance of the most holy temple. This building is more ancient, 
and the style much purer than the others around it ; even the 
