80 
HARDY TERNS. 
also grows on the coast about Teignmouth, and 
more plentifully near Dartmouth, that strange 
old western town, with its ill-conditioned streets, 
leading nowhere, huddled like waifs by the river 
side. The best thing to be done when you get 
into Dartmouth, whether by the pretty river 
route or by the railway, is to get out of it 
again by hiring a boat, and rowing to the 
mouth of the river, where you may pry after 
Marinum in caves hollowed out of the rugged 
rocks, where tired waves break and die, and 
sea-birds wail. The coast on the right of Dart- 
mouth begins to assume the characteristics of 
Cornwall ; the red sandstone gives place to granite, 
and the softer features, that make the charm of 
Devonshire scenery, disappear altogether. The 
Devonshire dialect, so soft and courteously mis- 
leading, is soon lost in the rougher tongue of the 
Tre," '^Poll," and "Pen" of the dear Cornish 
land— a land so separated by the character of its 
people and its natural scenery from the rest of 
England, that during my first visit to Penzance I 
