SUCCESS IN FRUIT-GROWING 
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Neosho Nurseries Co. 
The Advantages of Fall Planting. — They are: first, 
better selections as to varieties and sizes may then be secured ; 
second, the trees can start growth at the earliest possible mo- 
ment in the spring; third, the work can be done when there 
is less to do than in the spring. 
When We Can Ship. — We can ship fruit trees, vines, 
shrubs, etc., soon after the middle of October. We do not 
dig until the trees are thoroughly dormant and mature; other- 
wise, they would tend to be soft and green. Such trees will 
give weak, unsatisfactorj' growth. The earlier the trees are 
planted the better growth they will make, but it is better to 
plant late than to lose an entire year. We can ship to the 
southern districts, where winter planting is advisable, prac- 
tically all through the winter, and w-e can ship to all districts 
as late as May 1.5th. Strawberr>' plants are usualh' shipped 
in the spring. We can forward them any time after the latter 
part of February. The earlier they are planted, after the 
ground is in shape, the better growth they will make. 
Order Early. — For fall or spring planting, trees should be 
ordered as soon as your plans are definite. Some sizes and 
varieties are alwaj s sold out before the end of the season. 
When Your Trees Arrive. — Don't leave your trees in the 
express or freight office a single day. See if they arc in good 
shape. If the bark is dry, shriveled, or burned, the trees 
have been damaged. If there is the least doubt, report the 
condition immediately. If possible, plant them at once. If 
it is very cold, the bo.x or bundle should be put in a cool 
cellar or barn and covered with straw. If the weather is 
warm, but you are not ready to plant, unpack immediately 
and heel-in or place them in a cool cellar, covering the roots with damp packing from the box or bundle, and spread old 
sacks or canvas over them. (See third cover.) 
Plant in Straight Rows. — Straight rows make the care of the orchard easier. 
How to Plant. — Cut off all the small dead fibre roots and any bruised or broken root 
with a smooth cut. Remove all of the small, thread-lil<e roots. A^Tien the trees are taken out 
into the field, cover the roots with wet sacks or packing out of the box in which they came. 
If the weather is hot and the buds swell, be particularly careful not to get any water on the 
buds. 
The trees should be set usually a little deeper than they stood in the nursery. In 
very sandy soils they should be set 2 to 4 inches deeper. In the fall, trees may be set 
several inches deeper than in the spring. The holes for the trees should be large enough to 
take all the roots in their natural position. Balance the tree on your hand and the heavy 
side will roll naturally toward the ground. This side should be planted toward the prevail- 
ing wind. Dj'namiting the holes has proved a good investment. 
Sift the top-soil dirt about the roots; then they take their natural position and are 
surrounded by fine dirt. Press the dirt firmly about the roots; when (hey are well covered, 
but before the hole is full, several gallons of water should be added, if the ground is at all 
drj'. Mound the dirt up about the trees three or four inches high; do not press this down. 
Remove the wire labels from the treee as soon as they are planted. 
Pruning at Planting-Time. — Train the tree now in the way it should grow according to 
its kind and your requirements: low-headed for comn-.ercial purposes, high-headed for the 
home garden. See 'Inside Facts" for particulars. 
Care and Cultivation. — It does not take a great deal to supply the requirements of the 
trees for the first year or two. In the meantime the entire field can be built up by proper 
rotation of cover-crops and use of fertilizers, and the soil enriched as the orchard grows. 
Fillers and Inter-Crops. — When an orchard is planted, the trees must be set far enough 
apart so that they will have enough room when grown. However, the young trees do not 
require all the room the first few years. Many successful fruit-growers plant fillers and 
sometimes inter-crops in the orchard between the young trees. Fillers and inter-crops will 
pay at least a part of the expense of developing the orchard. 
A filler is a young-bearing tree, which is set in the orchard between the permanent trees. 
Young-bearing varieties of apples, such as Wealthy, King David, Jonathan, Orimes' Golden, 
Mcintosh, Duchess, Yellow Transparent, Wagoner, and Black Ben, make good fillers. Peaches 
are also especially good for this purpose, as they bear young. The filler trees produce a num- 
ber of crops before they have to be removed to make room for the peri: anent trees. 
An inter-crop is some suitable crop grown between the young trees Early potatoes and 
beans are especially good. Corn is also satisfactory, if not planted • ) close to the trees. 
Garden-truck is often very profit ;i,l)lo near tlie laiurr cities, 'fhe sin;.', iniits also make good 
especially, currants. 
One-year tree pruned 
at planting. 
The way that a two- 
year-oldtree frorathe 
nursery {or a one-year-old 
tree that has made one 
season's growth in the or- 
chard) should appear after 
pruning. 
inter-crops — strawberries ... 
gooseberries, raspberries, and asparagus. Do 
not plant a grain crop, as it does not permit 
cultivation and takes a great deal of the moist- 
ure from the soil. 
If the soil is poor and lacking in fertility, 
such crops as cow peas, soy beans, rye, vetch, 
and under certain circumstances clover, should 
be grown between the rows of trees and plowed 
under to enrich the soil. 
THE CRITICAL PERIOD.— The first two 
years is the critical period in the life of a tree. 
Give it thoughtful care and pruning, particu- 
larly diiting its babyhood. 
Before and After Pruning the Boots, 
