Success in Fruit-Growing 
4 
Nsoaho, Mo. 
bruised, the trees have been damaged. If there is 
any doubt, report the condition at once. 
The quicker you can get them into the ground, 
the better. If it is very cold, the box or bundle 
should be put in a cool cellar or barn and covered 
with straw. If the weather is warm, but you are 
not ready to plant, unpack immediately and heel 
in or place them in a cool cellar, covering the roots 
with damp packing from the box or bundle, and 
spread old sacks or canvas over them. (See in- 
side back cover.) 
How to Plant — In digging the holes they 
should be large enough to take in all the 
roots without crowding. The holes should 
be in straight lines; otherwise you will be 
handicapped in the care of the orchard. Unless 
the subsoil is loose and porous, dynamiting the holes 
is a good investment. In digging, put the top soil 
on one side by itself. Cut off the small dead fibre 
roots and any that are bruised or broken with a 
smooth cut, sloping out from the under side of 
the root. Remove the small thread-like roots. 
When the trees are taken out into the field, cover 
the roots with wet sacks or packing in which they 
come. If the weather is warm and the buds swell, 
be particularly careful not to get any water on the 
buds. Set the trees a little deeper than they stood 
in the nursery, in very sandy soils 2 to 4 inches deei er. 
Fall-planted trees may be set several inches deeper than 
when planting in the spring. Balance the tree on your 
hand an4 the heavier side will naturally roll toward the 
ground. This side should be turned toward the prevailng 
wind. Sift the top-soil dirt about the roots; then they take 
their natural position and are surrounded by fine dirt. 
Press the dirt firmly about the roots; when they are well 
covered, but before the hole is full, several gallons of water 
should be added, if the ground is at all dry. Mound the 
dirt up about the trees 3 or 4 inches high; do not press this 
down. Remove the wire labels 
from the trees as soon as they 
are planted. 
One-year 
at plantmg 
tree pruned 
/ 
y 
^ j<ii^ Pnming at Planting-Time — Train the tree now 
in the way it should grow, according to its kind 
^^^^V and your requirements: low-headed for commer- 
^^^^r cial purposes, high-headed for the home yard or 
garden. 
Note — Two of the greatest causes of the failure of newly 
set trees are, 1st, they are left too long with their roots 
e.xposed to sun and wind; 2d, they are not properly pruned 
at planting-time — the tops must be cut back, otherwise 
the reserve food stored up in the tree will be exhausted 
before the roots are able to supply more food. (See last 
inside page.) For further details on cultivation, fertilization, 
etc., see our "Inside Facts of 
Profitable FruilrGrowing." 
The first two years are the critical period in the 
life of a tree. Particular care and attention are 
required during this babyhood. 
The way that a two- 
year-oldtree from the 
ntusery (or a one-year-old 
tree that has made one 
■eason's growth In the or- 
chard) should appear after 
pruning. 
Roots before and after pruning 
One-year apple trees in 
tne nursery row 
