SUCCESS IN FRUIT-GROWING 
5 
When We Can Ship. — Nursery stock 
should not be dug until it is naturally 
matured and dormant, otherwise it is 
likely to give dissatisfaction. Usually 
we can begin digging about October ISth, 
and can ship up to about May 15th. 
Peony, Iris, Rhubarb and Asparagus 
can be sent from September 15th on. 
Strawberry plants can be shipped only 
in the spring. 
How to Handle Trees on Arrival. 
— Don't leave your trees in the express 
or freight ofifice a single day. See if they 
are in good shape — if the bark is 
shriveled or bruised, the trees have been 
damaged. If there is any doubt, report 
the condition at once. 
All Nursery Stock Should be 
Planted Immediately. If they reach 
you during freezing weather, put the 
package in a cool, dry, frost-proof cellar 
or building and cover it with straw, or 
bury the box or package under a foot 
or more of earth. 
If the weather is mild, but you are 
not ready to plant, unpack immediately 
and put them into a cool cellar, covering 
the roots with damp packing from the 
package and spread old sacks or canvas 
over them, sprinkling on water from 
time to time — just enough to keep them 
from drying out. 
It is even better to heel them in. 
Select a dry, well-drained location. Dig 
a trench two feet deep and wide enough 
to avoid crowding the roots. Put the 
trees in with the tops a foot or more 
higher than the roots. Cover the entire 
tree with a foot of earth. 
How to Plant. — Be careful not to 
expose the roots to the wind or sun. 
Keep them covered with wet sacks or 
packing. If the weather is hot and the 
A well trained Baldwin Apple tree in New England 
buds swell, be particularly careful to 
avoid getting water on the buds. 
Prune the roots by cutting off the 
small fibre roots and any bruised or 
broken roots with a smooth cut. The 
other roots should be shortened a little. 
Dig the holes large enough to take 
in all the roots without crowding. Put 
the top soil to one side, so you can use 
to fill in around the roots. The holes 
should be in straight lines, otherwise 
you will be handicapped in the care of 
the orchard. Unless the soil is loose and 
porous, dynamiting the holes is a good 
investment. This should not be done 
when the ground is wet. 
Set the trees a little deeper than 
they stood in the nursery, in very sandy 
soils 2 to 4 inches deeper. Fall-planted 
trees may be set several inches deeper 
than when planting in the spring. Bal- 
ance the tree on your hand and the 
heavier side will naturally roll toward 
the ground. This side should be turned 
toward the prevailing wind. Sift the 
top-soil dirt about the roots; then they 
take their natural position and are sur- 
rounded by fine dirt. Press the dirt 
firmly about the roots; when they are 
well covered, but before the hole is full, 
several gallons of water should be added, 
if the ground is at all dry. Usually the 
earth is moist enough, and too much 
water would be injurious. Mound up 
the dirt about the tree three or four 
inches high; leave this loose and un- 
packed to conserve the moisture. 
Remove the wire labels from the 
trees as soon as they are planted. 
Two-year-old Apple trees in the nursery row 
