14 
PLANTING AND CARE OF ORNAMENTALS 
WHEN TO PLANT. 
• Spring is the best time for planting in the northern half of the United States 
and in the arid Western States. 
Fall planting has some advantages in other regions, but not suflBcient to war- 
rant postponement from spring to autumn. With low-growing shrubs and Roses, 
fall planting may be practiced satisfactorily farther north, if protection is provided 
during the winter by mounding the earth up over them and putting on a mulch. 
This should be raked off in the spring. 
The Peony and Iris will reach full blooming strength sooner if planted in the 
fall. They should be mulched to prevent alternate freezing and thawing, whicli 
would heave the roots out of the ground. Fall and winter planting, without pro- 
viding this protection, may be practiced successfully in Maryland, Delaware, the 
Virginias, Kentucky; southern parts of Ohio, Indiana, Missouri; all States to the 
south; eastern part of Oklahoma; Texas and the Pacific Slope, where there are 
winter rains. 
ORNAMENTAL TREES 
Dig the holes large enough to hold the roots without crowding. Cut off broken 
and injured roots and shorten any that are extra long. Set the tree two inches 
deeper than it stood in the nursery. Fill in the hole with loose rich dirt, pressing 
it firmly about the roots. If the ground is dry, pour in several gallons of water 
before the last four or five inches of dirt are thrown in. After the water soaks 
in, fill the hole completely with loose dirt. Do not press down the wet dirt about 
the roots. 
Pruning Cut Qut the smaller branches. Shorten the larger ones to four or five 
good buds. Sometimes the buds near the base of the branch are sn'all and un- 
developed and may not grow. Care should therefore be taken to leave several 
large, plump btids on each branch. Do not shorten any branches after the tree 
starts to grow. 
The second year, after the tree has made a good growth, the land of pruning 
depends on the results desired. Some trees, not planted as shade or road trees, 
should be kept with low -branching heads. For instance, the Bechtel Flowering 
Crab is naturally low-growing and the central leaders should be cut out. 
On the other hand, the Maple, Elm, and other shade trees should keep the 
central leaders. As the tree gets older, the lower side branches should be cut off, 
giving room to pass under them. If the central leader is injured, a side branch 
can be trained to take its place. 
Shade trees, like otl.er plants, respond to care and attention. Watering dur- 
ing a hot, dry summer, and cultivation will foster their growth. They will give 
you shade much sooner if they are not neglected. ^ 
SHRUBS 
Spade the ground deep. 
Make the holes, prune the roots, and set out as directed under "Ornamental 
Trees," except that shrubs should be set no deeper than they stood in the nursery. 
Keep the weeds out. Water often if the season is hot and dry. A mulch 
of leaves or straw will help to keep the roots moist and cool. During the first winter 
they should have a heavy mulch of leaves or coarse manure. 
Pruning At planting-time, cut the branches back one-half to two-thirds. 
After the shrub is well cstabhshed, cut out old, weakened canes and shorten 
those branches only that give the bush an unnatural appearance. It is often 
necessary also to remove branches on the inside — small weak shoots, which pro- 
duce poor flowers and detract from the looks of the shrub. 
Shrubs should not be sheared heavily. Hedges of Privet or Japan Quince are 
an exception. 
Prune Hydrangeas and Altheas regularly each winter. They will then produce 
better flowers, as tliey blossom in late summer on new wood. 
Deutzia, Spirea, Japan Quince, Philadelphus, and shrubs which flower on wood 
of the previous season's growth should not be pruned until June or July, after 
they are through blooming. 
