PLANTING AND CARE OF ORNAMENTALS 
19 
For two rows of bushes the beds should 
be three feet wide, and for three rows four 
and one-half feet wide, and as long as de- 
sired. Bushes should be set one and one- 
half or two feet apart in the bed, depend- 
ing upon whether they are large growers, 
like Maman Cochet and Snow Queen, or 
small, bushy growers, like Annie MuUer. 
When the soil is naturally fertile, spading 
the ground thoroughly will give good results. 
When the soil is not naturally fertile, 
prepare the bed the spring before by spading 
in well-rotted manure and leaf mold. If 
the soil is stiff clay, add sand or sifted ashes. 
A large quantity of manure may be used, 
providing it is mixed in some months ahead 
and well rotted before the plants are set. 
Those who make a specialty of Roses pre- 
pare beds as follows: Lay out the bed the 
size desired. Throw out all the dirt to a 
depth of two or two and a half feet, and 
put in six inches of small, crushed stone. 
If located near large trees, a border of boards 
or permanent concrete should be placed 
around the 'edge, to prevent the tree roots 
from taking the fertility needed for the 
Roses. The bed should be filled in with a 
mixture of one-third or more fertile top soil 
from the garden, one-third of the clay sub- 
soil, and one-third of well-rotted manure. 
They should be well mixed before they are 
put in the pit. This mixture should be 
mounded up some inches above the surface of the ground to allow for settling. 
If there is not time to allow the ground to settle, it should be thoroughly tramped 
down as it is put in. 
Planting The manner of setting Roses depends on how they are propagated. There 
are two methods: First, by growing from cuttings and green wood tips, which 
gives a plant on its own roots. Second, by budding on Manetti or other hardy 
stocks. This method gives strong plants and is necessarj' for many of the less 
vigorous varieties. The budded Rose requires particular care in pruning; other- 
wise, the briar stock will put out suckers below the bud and finally crowd it out . 
The bud is less vigorous at the start, and sometimes the suckers are allowed to 
remain by those who fail to distinguish one from the other. But the suckers from 
the briar stock are easily recognized, as the foliage is different, usually having 
seven leaflets instead of five, and the cane is nearly covered with thorns. Further- 
more, the sucker comes up from the root below the surface of the ground, usually 
several inches from the main stem. 
Budded Roses should be set so that the point where the bud was inserted in 
the briar stock is two inches below the surface of the ground. Roses-on-their-own- 
roots should be set as deep as they stood in the nursery. Dig the hole eighteen 
inches deep; cut oil broken or injured roots; hold the plant in position; spread 
out the roots so they do not cross or crowd one another at any point; fill in the holes 
carefully with the fertile top soil, pressing it firmly in about the roots. A small 
handful of finely ground bone meal sprinkled in is vei-y helpful. After the hole 
lias been filled and dirt pressed firmly, cut back the top canes one half to two- 
thirds, and then mound loose dirt up about them for six to ten inches. This 
mound of dirt should be placed about the canes whether the plants are set in the 
fall or spring — otherwise, they are apt to dry out. If the Roses are planted in the 
fall, this mound should be covered with a thick mulch of straw or leaves. Af 
Rose. 
Cover the tops of new'y-pJanted Rose biisbee 
with a mound of luootj dirt 6 to 12 inches tall. 
This prevents the topa from drying out ana 
dying before iney oac; start growth. As soon 
as the buds start to grow, rake this mound off. 
When planting budded Roses, the point where 
the bud wai inserted in the stock (as shown 
by "A") should be set several inches below the 
surface of the ground. 
