PRUNING 
33 
Whenever an unnecessary branch is 
formed, it should always be cut back to one 
fruit bud. In this way, the entire length of 
the branch will bear spurs, so the weight of the 
fruit will be distributed along the full length 
of the branch from the very tips into the cen- 
ter of the tree. Some growers out all sprouts 
and shoots on the main branches, leaving them 
bare. If all the fruit is near the end of the 
branch, it is more apt to break than if the 
load were distributed along the entire branch. 
Pruning After the Third Season's Growth. 
The small side branches which were shortened 
back the preceding year will put out addi- 
tional branches of their own, and two of these 
additional branches should be allowed to re- 
main. All others should be cut back to a single 
bud to form fruiting spurs. The frame-work 
of the tree should now be well formed, and 
require less attention from this time on. Sur- 
plus branches or those inclined to form weak 
crotches should be removed. Too vigorous 
growth in one direction should be removed 
so as to keep the trees in uniform shape. 
Water sprouts should be removed entirely. 
The orehardist should try to train each 
tree so that it conforms to the ideal as de- 
scribed above. The form of the tree is complete 
after the third winter's pruning, and the only 
pruning necessary after that is to remove any 
diseased or broken branches, to take out 
enough branches to keep the top of the tree 
open to the sunshine, and to shorten back any 
too vigorous growth. 
It is not always possible to make them de- 
velop just the way you want them to grow, but 
you should have a certain definite shape in 
your mind and then try to train your trees as near as possible to that 
shape. 
In hot climates the branches on the north side of the tree will often 
grow faster than the branches on the south side, and the north branches 
must be shortened back to keep the tree uniform iji shape. Further, 
in a hot climate, care should be taken not to open up big gaps in the 
tree so the sun can get to the main branches and trunk of the tree and 
injure it. 
Always try to look ahead as far as possible. Cut out all unnecessary 
limbs before they get too large. If two branches show a tendency to form 
a weak crotch that will split, cut out one of them. It is better to do this 
while they are small than to take out large branches later on. Remove a 
superfluous limb before it becomes a nuisance to the tree and has grown 
large enough to injure the permanent limbs. 
Winter pruning stimulates wood growth. A tree that is not in 
healthy, vigorous condition should be pruned severely in the winter or 
early spring. When the head of the tree is too thick, cut out the medium 
small branches. Don't waste time cutting out the small twigs — new ones 
will grow in the same place next season. 
(3) The way the tree 
should be pruned after It 
has made Its second sea- 
son's growth. 
(4) The way a tree 
should be pruned after It 
has made Its third sea- 
son's arowth. The 
branches shown In the 
above diagram form the 
main arms lor the tree, 
with all of the scaffold 
branches on which the 
remainder of the top Is 
buUt. 
