CARE OF PEAR TREES 
37 
States and in the fruit districts west of the Rooky Mountains. In the 
Southern States only the Garber and Kieffer should be planted, as they 
are the two varieties most resistant to blight. On sterile soils the pear 
does better than the apple. It thrives on high, sterile clay knolls, where 
apples would not thrive at all. It does well on thin, sandy land. However, 
it makes the best growth on moderately rich, porous clay loam. 
If planted on very fertile loam, it will make a rapid growth and is 
apt to be attacked by the blight. One reason that it thrives on clay soils 
and on sterile sandy soils is that it does not make much growth and is dot 
so apt to be attacked by the fire blight. 
.Pear orchards are often kept in sod, as any method of cultivation 
causes them to grow too fast. Use very little or no manure about pear 
trees. It stimulates the growth, so they are more apt to blight. Either 
the one-year or two-year pear trees can be had from the nursery. Direc- 
tions for digging the holes, setting the trees, cultivating, and pruning 
are the same as for apples, which see under page 29. It should be re- 
membered that pear trees are very upright growers, and in pruning al- 
ways cut to an outside bud, so as to make them spread out as much as 
possible. 
Planting Distances. The usual distance for planting standard pears 
is to set them in squares either 18 or 20 feet apart each way. Dwarf 
pears can be used as fillers or they can be planted in blocks by them- 
selves. The fruit of dwarf pears is just as large as the others, but the 
trees never attain the same size, and for that reason they are set 10 to 12 
feet apart. For further information in regard to the dwarf pear, see 
page 41. 
Pruning the Pear. In a general way, the pear is pruned at plant- 
ing-time, and thereafter in about the same way as the apple, although on 
very fertile soils it should be pruned a great deal less, otherwise it may 
develop a large number of water-sprouts, which are easily infected by 
blight. These should be cut or pinched off as fast as they appear. Light 
pruning does not harm any variety of pear, and is very beneficial to 
such sorts as Anjou, which is tardy coming into bearing and the young 
trees are inclined to drop their fruit after it is "set." Severe pruning in 
the winter will prevent this and insure a good crop of fruit. The trees 
should be cut back each .year, and some of the new wood that may have 
been forced by the pruning should also be cut out. When once the 
young trees begin to bear, there will be little trouble about shedding. 
The Duchess d'Angouleme is a splendid variety of pear, and is 
grown very extensively as a dwarf. It does not succeed when grown as a 
standard. 
Pears should not be allowed to ripen on the trees. They will have 
a better flavor and will keep longer if they are allowed to ripen after they 
have been picked. The pear is the only fruit the quality of which is 
improved by picking before it is fully ripe. They should be picked just 
before they begin to be soft, but after they take on a suggestion of color 
and when the fruit will separate from the twig easily. They should be 
^vrapped in paper and placed in boxes in a cool dark cellar until they 
ripen. Even the Kieffer and Oarber, which are only fair quality, are good 
for eating and cooking when handled in this way. If allowed to hang 
on the tree until ripe, these varieties will be coarse and gritty around the 
core. 
Fire blight is most common on pears, although it occurs on apples. 
It is the most serious handicap to pear-growing. It can be controlled by 
special treatment, and where this is done pears are one of the most 
profitable fruits grown, as the market is never half supplied. 
The treatment for blight is not as difficult or complicated as it may 
sound to one who has never tried. It is not so very expensive, for, once 
