CHERRY 
49 
older, they can be safely set 18 feet apart. It is not best to crowd plums 
nor any other kind of fruit trees; and to facilitate spraying, these 
stronger-growing trees will do better if set 20 feet apart or 24 feet apart 
on strong soils. 
Cultivation and spraying is the same as described for peaches. (See 
pages 47 and 76.) 
Pollination. It is advisable to plant two or more varieties of plums 
together. The Wild Goose will not bear at all unless it is fertilized with 
the pollen from another variety, and many of the other varieties of plums 
are improved by cros*-pollination. 
Cherry 
The cherry may be divided into three groups: The sour cherry, 
including Dyehouse, Early Richmond, English Morello, Montmorency 
and Wragg; the sweet cherries, Schmidt, Napoleon, Lambert, Black Tar- 
tarian and Bing; and the Royal Duke, a cross between the sweets and 
sours, having many of the good qualities of both. 
Sour Cherries. The sour cherries are very hardy, bloom late, and 
are dependable bearers. They succeed in nearly all parts of the country 
except on the low lands in the extreme South and exposed localities of 
northern Maine, Montana, the Dakotas, Wisconsin, etc. They are one 
of the easiest fruits to grow, and especially suited for the small home 
orchard and for planting in back yards or vacant lots. But they must 
have dry soil. The ground must not only have good surface drainage, 
but a fairly porous subsoil that permits a good under drainage. 
Either one-year-old or two-year-old cherry trees may be had from 
the nursery. A one-year-old sour cherry tree, when properly grown in 
the nursery has a well-branched top and has proved to be the most 
satisfactory. 
Cherry trees should be planted as early as possible. If the ground 
is dry, pour in enough water to thoroughly moisten the dirt. If too 
much water is used the earth may cake about the roots and injure the 
tree. Once established they require less care and attention than any 
other tree, although they respond readily to cultivation. They should 
be plowed and cultivated as described under apples, page 34. 
Dig the holes and trim the roots as shown on page 17. In a dry 
climate, or when planted late in the spring, several gallons of water 
should be poured into the holes in order to insure a good start. 
Pruning. With sour cherries very little pruning has been the 
practice, but the experiences of the most successful growers of Wisconsin, 
one of the principal cherry producing states, and of Michigan, show that 
the sour cherry tree thrives best when regularly and often heavily pruned. 
It keeps up the bearing area, reduces winter-killing of blossom buds, 
cheapens production by making lower trees, and lengthens the life of 
the trees. These methods described in detail in Bulletin 298, March, 
1919, issued by the Agricultural Experiment Station, University of 
Wisconsin, at Madison, are as follows: 
Pruning at Planting Time. Cut off crowding and broken roots and 
shorten those over 10 inches long. Cut off all but the leader and 4 to 6 
of the* best branches. Out these branches back to 2 or 3 strong buds, 
leaving the leader about 4 inches longer than the branches; 18 to 24 
inches is the favored heiglit of the lowest main branch. 
Pruning After One Year's Growth. Fully grown trees with 7 to 
9 main branches and few laterals are better than those with only 4 or 5 
main branches and more laterals. Cut out cross and crowding branches 
leaving only strong, well-placed branches. Pour or five may be left 
and 3 or 4 more selected a year or two later arising from the loader. If 
the season's growth is 20 to 24 inches the tops should be cut back about 
4 inches. 
