56 
RASPBERRY 
Planting Distance trained to single stakes, set the plants 4 feet 
apart each way. If to wire trellis, have the rows 
6 feet wide, with the plants 2 to 3 feet apart in the row. In small gardens 
they may be planted closer. 
Diseases See under Blackberry. 
Red Raspberry 
The red raspberry, like the blackberry, will succeed on almost any 
soil, but does best on fertile, well-drained loam. In the Southern States 
it should be planted on a northern slope, wherever possible, as it will 
produce better when it is protected from the extremely hot sun. Where 
the land is very thin, the stronger, more vigorous varieties, like Cuthbert, 
should be planted. 
The red raspberry does not make such a heavy growth as the black- 
berry, and can be planted closer, in rows 4 or 5 feet apart, with the 
plants 2 to 3 feet apart. The 5-foot rows are generally preferable in the 
larger plantations, as cultivation is easier. In the small garden and back 
yard 3-foot rows will be found satisfactory. 
The red raspberry can be planted by the same method as the black- 
berry. 
Habits The habits of the red raspberry are the same as the black- 
berry, and the old canes should be removed as soon as they 
have borne their fruit. Some- growers pinch off the tips of the new canes 
when they are 2 feet tall, so as to force them to branch. However, this 
has a tendency to force up a lot of small weak suckers from the roots. 
The better plan is to let them grow all summer and to cut them back 
within 2 or 3 feet of the ground in the spring, depending on whether 
they are a tall or low-growing variety. 
The red raspberry sprouts from the roots and will form a solid, 
dense hedge-row if left to itself, and is very satisfactory grown in that 
way, although some growers plant them in checks and cultivate both 
ways. The main disadvantage in the hedge-row is that the canes come 
up too thick and the fruit will not be of the highest quality. This can be 
readily overcome by thinning out the sprouts every year, allowing only 
the strongest ones to grow. Cut out the weak young canes when you 
cut out the old canes. 
Orange Rust This sometimes affects the red raspberry and should 
be treated as described for the blackberry. 
Anthracnose This is another disease which affects the red raspberry, 
forming small, gray blisters on the canes, which some- 
times grow and run together, giving the cane a diseased, spotted appear- 
ance. If there are only a few canes affected this way, they should be cut 
out and burned. If the patch is badly diseased, some growers mow the 
patch immediately after the fruit has been picked, and, as soon as the 
canes are dry, burn over the field. The crop the next year will be re- 
duced about half on account of this treatment, but the canes will be free 
from this trouble, and the life of the patch extended several years. 
This has been a more satisfactory method of getting rid of the trou- 
ble than spraying, although some growers use Bordeaux Mixture for the 
purpose, spraying when the young sprouts are 6 to 8 inches high. 
Black Raspberry 
The black raspberry will succeed on a wide range of soils, but thrives 
best on a deep, fairly moist, well-drained loam. The black raspberry 
forms a single bush, or crown. Suckers do not grow from the roots. It 
is propagated in the nursery by laying down tips of the canes and cover- 
ing over. These tips form roots, and when they are ready to dig, the cane 
is cut from the old plant. 
