ROSES— SHRUBS 
67 
take is unnecessary, as the sucker growing from the brier stock is easily 
recognized, for it "has seven leaflets instead of five, the care is nearly 
covered with thorns, and the sucker coming up from the root is usually 
several inches from the main plant. 
Budded Roses should be set so that the point where the bud was in- 
serted in the brier stock is 2 inches below the surface. Cut back canes one- 
third to one-half and mound loose earth up around the bush 6 to 10 inches 
high. (Cover the balance with straw if planting in the fall in a locality 
subject to severe dry freezing weather.) The mound of earth should be 
placed about the bush whether the planting is done in the fall or spring, 
tor as much damage is done to the pithy canes of the Rose bush at plant- 
ing-time by drying out as by freezing during the winter. As soon as the 
buds start to grow in the spring, rake away the mound of earth and cut 
back the canes again, leaving two to four buds to each cane. Make this 
cut just above a sound outside bud, so that the new growth will grow 
outward, making a shapely bush. 
p ix; x; Just before the growth starts in the spring a dressing 
v^uiuvd.uun well-rotted manure or fertilizer should be spaded in. 
Deep cultivation is apt to break the roots. Three inches is sufficient. 
The ground should be kept well cultivated during the summer, and when 
it is hot and dry they should be watered in the evening. Always put on 
enough water at a time so as to wet the soil deep, and then cultivate the 
following morning as soon as the ground is dry enough, and by careful 
cultivation you can retain the moisture for a week or more. 
Roses are well established after the first season, and should be 
pruned each spring according to their needs; i. e., remove any old or 
weak canes and shorten back the remaining ones a half to four-fifths in 
the spring before growth starts. The different varieties of Roses require 
different pr\ining, as their habits of growth vary. 
The following should be pruned lightly: Annie Miller and Maman 
Coehet. Snow Queen should be pruned moderately. The following should 
be pruned hard, cutting back the canes to about six buds: General Jac- 
queminot, Marshall P. Wilder, and Paul Neyron. The following should 
not be pruned except to remove old, weak canes: Conrad F. Meyer, 
Climbing American Beauty, Dorothy Perkins, Rosa Rugosa, and Crimson 
Rambler. Prune by thinning canes only: Gruss an Teplitz. 
Remove the flowers as soon as the petals begin to drop. Do not 
allow seed-pods to form, except on the Rosa Rugosa, whose seed-pods, or 
"hips," are almost as attractive as the flowers themselves. 
Shrubs 
Give the ground a good dressing of well-rotted manure or other 
fertilizer, and spade it deep. Set the plants as deep as they stood in the 
nursery row. Protect the roots from exposure. Keep down all weeds. 
Water if the season is hot and dry. The ground about the shrub should 
be mulched heavily with leaves or coarse manure the first winter. 
Pruning. At planting-time cut back the branches about one-half. 
Shrubs should not be pruned or sheared heavily, except the Privet and 
Japan Quince, when used in hedges. Shearing shrubs on the outside 
wthout removing some of the inside branches gives the plant an unnat- 
ural shape and leads to the growth of many small, weak shoots and poor 
flowers. Irregular or over-large branches should be shortened back, 
and weakly ones cut out entirely, but the pruning shears should be used 
sparingly. There are several exceptions. The Hydrangeas and Altheas, 
which flower late in the summer and on new wood of the current season's 
growth, produce better flowers when pruned regularly each winter. 
Shrubs which flower on wood of the previous season's growth should not 
bo pruned until Juno or July, when they are through blooming. Deutzia, 
Spirea, Japan Quince, and Philadelphus belong to this class. 
