2 
Sherman Nursery Company, Charles City, Iowa 
exposures are not so subject as others to the freezing and thawing of ground in early 
spring, ground thaws a little slower, and as a consequence, trees do not start quite 
so early. 
2d. The Preparation of the SoU.— For fruit trees the soil should be dry, cither 
naturally or made so by thorough drainage, as they will not live or thrive on a soil 
constantly saturated with stagnant moisture. It should also be well prepared. On new, 
fresh lands, manuring will be unnecessary; but on lands exhausted by cropping, fer- 
tilizers must be applied, either by turning in heavy crops of clover, or well-decomposed 
manure or compost. To ensure a good growth of fruit trees, land should be in as good 
condition as for a crop of corn or potatoes. 
3d. The Preparation of the Trees. — There are more fatal errors committed in 
regard to this important operation than in any other. As a general thing, trees are 
planted in the ground precisely as they are sent from the nursery. In removing a 
tree, no matter how carefully it may be done, portions of the roots are broken and 
destroyed, and consequently the balance that existed in the structure of the tree is 
deranged. This must be restored by a proper pruning, adapted to the size, form and 
condition of the tree. 
4th. Planting. — Dig holes in the first place large enough to permit the roots of 
the tree to spread out in their natural position, thus having the tree pruned as before 
directed; let one person hold the tree, placing the heavier portion of the top to the 
southwest, and with the trunk slanting a little in that direction, while the other shovels 
in fine dirt about the roots, taking pains to fill all interstices, and bringing every root 
in coTitact with the soil. When the hole is nearly filled, if the ground is dry, it is a good 
plan to apply a pail of water to moisten the ground and wash the dirt in about the 
roots. This is unnecessary, however, if the ground is fairly moist. In this latitude, 
and especially north and west of here in dry lands, it is good practice to plant fruit 
trees about 6 inches deeper in the ground than they stood in the nursery row, but where 
land is inclined to be wet, they should be planted about the same depth as they stood 
in nursery. In dry, gravelly ground, the hole should be dug about twice the usual 
size and depth, and filled with rich, loamy soil. 
5th. If trees are large and planted in exposed locations, they should be staked, 
and, if this is found necessary, the trunk should be wrapped with something to keep 
the stake from chafing the tree. 
6th. Cultivation and Mulching.— When trees are planted, keep the orchard well 
cultivated up to about July i to lo, and for this purpose there is no better practice 
than to grow a crop of corn in the orchard, leaving the stalks to stand for winter pro- 
tection; but where this is not practicable, cultivate the land to above date and then 
sow to some cover crop. Do not seed down an orchard so long as it can be avoided, 
but keep it cultivated as above indicated, and keep the soil well fertilized; but when 
the time comes that the orchard must be seeded down, sow to red clover and mulch 
the trees heavily so that grass will not grow within 6 or 8 feet of them. It is also good 
practice to spade up this mulched space about the tree each spring. 
7th. Treatment of Trees Frozen in the Packages or Received During Freezing 
Weather. — Place the package in some cool place, a damp, cool cellar jjreferrcd, where 
the temperature is just a little above freezing, and allow it to remain there for several 
days until all frost is removed before opening the package. If stock is properly packed 
and handled as above directed, it will not be injured in the least by freezing. 
8th. Directions for Wintering. — When trees are procured in the fall, select a 
dry place where water will be well drained off during the winter months; then dig 
a trench a little longer than the trees to be heeled-in, with the lower end about 2 feet 
deep. Dig the trench broad enough to contain the trees when spread in a single layer; 
then remove all packing material from about the trees and spread them out in the 
trench. When this is done, sift in fine dirt until all the open spaces are filled among 
the trees and roots and they are covered several inches deep, then tramp firmly and 
fill up the trench, mounding up the dirt so that the tops will be covered at least 4 inches 
deep and the roots about 2 feet. Care should be taken to remove all material from 
the trench and its vicinity which might serve as nests for mice. 
Remarks. — We have not aimed in the above to give full directions for handling 
trees, but only a few of the main outlines. The above directions will also apply to 
the handling of pear, apricot, peach, nectarine, quince, plum, cherry, grape-vines, cur- 
rant, gooseberry, mulberry, high-bush cranberry, Juneberry, weeping trees, shade 
and ornamental trees, shrubs, roses and vines. 
