io6 
Travels into the Levant. 
irt 
CHAP. LXVIIL 
Of the Jjle of Santorini. 
Smotinî, or 
Therafitt, 
Scm. 
Nebrio. 
St. Stephen's 
Hill. 
Fmtfa. 
Croiir'u 
Schifis Bread. 
TH E Ifle of Santoriniy whofe ancient name was Tkerafa^ is thirty fix 
miles round, and is threefcore miles from Candie^ from whence the 
Land of it may be feen. There are fcveral Caftles in this Ifle j and firft the 
Caftle of St. Nicholas, ftanding on a point of the Ifland. This is a frightful 
place, for befides that it is very high -, the Houfes of it are built upon the 
hanging fides of black and burn'd Rocks, A Greek Bilhop has his refidencc 
there, and a matter of five hundred Souls about him, but moft of them live 
in Caves that they have made under Ground, which is very light,and eafie to be 
Dug, being all Pumice-ftone ; and it is very pleafant to fee Plowed Lands and 
People living underneath them, fo that the Men come creeping out like Coneys. 
But Scaro is a Caftle far more Gaftly than that of St. Nicholas^ not only for 
the height, but folitude of the Place ; and thofe that go up to it, muft climb 
with Hands and Feet, and have a fpecial care too, leaft fome great Stone fall 
from on high and knock them down j for one cannot Ihun it by turning back. 
This Caftle contains about an hundred and fifty houfes, built round a Rock 
that overlooks them ; upon which heretofore were feveral houfes ; and the 
Greeksjhave ftill a Church there,which formerly belonged to the Latins,wherc- 
in there are two Images of Maflive Silver the one of our Lady, and the 
other of St. Michael. That Rock is fupported by walls, for fear it Ihould fall 
upon the houfes -, for if fo, it would fmother all the Inhabitants, who are 
about five hundred in number. The Latin Biftop lives in that place. Half- 
way betwixt Scaro and another Caftle called P?V^«?, there is a Chappel of our 
Lady, with many large Caves, where about two hundred People live. Butin 
going from Scaro to Ptrgo, there is a Hill to be mounted with great pain, from 
whence one has a view of the whole Ifland, and the Plain cultivated and Plan- 
ted with Vines, but few Trees, unkfs it be Fig-Trees, and white Mulberry- 
Trees. Their Vineyards afford them wine enough for thé ufe of all the Inha- 
bitants, and fome more, which they fell to their Neighbours, who come and 
Export it. It is carried to Chio, Smyrna^ and other Places: They make all 
forts of Stuffs of which they raife Money to pay their Tribute. In this 
place there are a thoufand Souls almoft all Greeks, and there the Cady Refides. 
Their Houfes are well built, look all white, and are of a round Figure, and 
encompafTed with walls, fo that not being feen, they look only like a Tov;er. 
At Scaro there is a Monaftery of Nuns of the Latin rite, and the Order of St. 
Dominick, but they areifl lodged, becaufe the place is narrow, and the Air bad. 
Their Church is kept in good order, and ferved by a Prieft that is their Chap- 
lain. Betwixt P/Vfo and another place called Nehrio^ there is a Hill, called St. 
Stephens Hill, on which are feveral Chefts of Marble, withCovers, and pieces of 
Statues, hot Caves j and the walls of the firll Town, ftood upon it, called 
Famofa j there are alfo three Statues there of a prodigious length, lying upon 
the Ground ; which a Candiot, ( who took away all the Antiquities of this 
Ifle ) could not remove ; who, (as it is faid j found a great many pieces of 
Gold and Silver Money there. A woman that in Ancient times lived upon thac 
Hill, gaVe Viduals to all the People for a whole year that a Plague and Fa- 
mine lafted'j and it is probable thefe Statues have been ereéled in honour of 
that good Lady. On the other point of the Ifle, that in form refembles a Cre- 
fccnt. There is alfo a Caftle called Crctiri^ Inhabited by about an hundred 
and fifty Souls \ and there are feven Viflages here and there in the Country, 
but ill Peopled,for indeed, the Inhabitants ofthis Ifland livevery meanly. Their 
Bread which they call Sihifes, is Bisket nicde of equal parts of Wheat and 
Barley, as black as Pitch, and fo harlh that one can hfidly fwallow it. They 
never heat the Oven but twice a Year, ar.d then make tl.eir Bisket, which 
with 
