• Part II. Travels into the hnv A NT. ^ 25 
and that's all they have the whole day. In Per/ia the Horfes have Barley 
onely at Nighc, but in the Day-time they give them a Sack of Straw. 
Let us now fee how they make Butter at Damafcus, which is the fame way The way of 
all Turkey over. They faften the two ends of a ftick to the two hind feet of making Bw.. 
a Veflel, that's to fay, each end of the ftick to each foot ; and the fame they 
do to the fore-feet, to the end thefe fticks may ferve for handles : Then they 
put the Cream înto the VefTel, flopping it clofe, and then taking hold on it 
by the two fticks, they fhake it for fbme time, and after put a little water 
into it: Then they fhake it again, untill the Butter be made; which being 
done, they pour off a kind of Butter-milk by them called Togoun, which 
they drink. When they would have this Yogourt more delicious,they heat the 
Milk, and put a fpoonfull of fower Milk to it, which they make fower with 
runnet ; and by that mixture all the Milk becoming Yogourt^ they let it cool 
and then ufe it; or if they have a mind to keep it, they put it with Salt 
into a bag which they tye very faft, that what is within may be prefled ; 
and let it drop until no more come out: Of that matter there remains no 
more in the bag but a kind of a Butter or rather white Cheefè', of which 
when they have a mind to have Yogourt they take a morcel, and fteep it in 
water, which they drink with great pleafure ; they ufè much of it to refrefh 
themfelves, efpecially in the Caravans, where they have always good flore. 
This Yogourt is very fharp, but efpecially that which remains after they 
have made the Butter. 
I conclude my obfervations of Damafcus with this advertifement, that the 
Wines there are treacherous and ftrong; and that the Smimium Creticum grows Strong Wines, 
in this Town upon all the TerralTes of the Houfes. Smimium 
Creticum. 
CHAR VI. 
Of the Journey from Damafcus to Aleppo. 
Monday Morning the one and twentieth of Afril^ I parted from Damaf Departure 
with the two Horfe men of the Tofgi in the manner I mentioned from Damaf- 
before. We went out at the Gate called Bab-Thoma^ and keeping ftreight 
Eâil, in three hours time came to Ejjair., a fmall Vilkge, by which runs a Ejfair, 
little River, that divides into two, above the Village : There is a Han there 
that has two Courts, and there we found all the Caravan which was to con- 
vey the powder; with whom my Moucre and I encamped. Next Morning a- 
bout half an hour after five they decamped, and we marched Eaftward, in a 
fpacious plain, though near us to the left we had Mountains of white Rocks : 
About eight a Clock we began to have hills on both hands, with barren 
plains betwixt them ; and three hours after, that's to fay, about eleven a 
Clock we arrived at Cteifa, above which we encamped, over againflthe Han. cteifa. 
Ctetfa is a large Village, near to which there is a great Hm with high The Han of 
Walls of Free-ftone, well built with Battlements; it hath a great Gate to the Cteifa. 
South, another to the North, and two little ones on the fides. The South 
Gate begins a long Entry arched over, on the fides whereof there are (hops, 
furnifhed with all things that can be neceffary for a Caravan, and a 
Coffee-houfe and Bagnio, Afterwards you enter into a large fquare Court, 
which hath all round itikf^/^l'ez,,or flonehalf paces for lodging the Caravan. 
This Court hath great Gates in the infide, one at each front, of which the 
Eaft and South are faced with Iron. When you are entered the Court, the 
door which you find leads you to the Mofque, which hath a fair Dome rough 
cafl over, and a goodly Minaret : Coming out of the Mofque through the 
Court, by theEaft-gate, you enter firft into a vaulted walk, which hath Maf- 
tahez. on each fide, from thence into, another Court fbmewhat longer than 
broad, which is well paved ; in the middle whereof there is a great fquare 
E refer- 
