Part III. T^ravels into I N D I E S. 
fometimes the Houfes arc covered over with them, fo that they never fail 
to hurt fome body in the Streets when they can find any thing on the R.oofs 
to throw at them. The out skirts of the Town are beautified with a great 
many fair pubfick Gardens. There is a Sepulchre built of Marble, which Sepulchre 
a King of Guzerat raifed in Honour of his Governour, whom he loved ex- nou^^of "^e"^' 
ceedingly, but it is kept in bad repair. It contains three Courts, in one of ^iag orG«- 
which are feveral Pillars of Porphyrie, that ftill remain of a greater zerat. 
number. There are many Sepulchres of Princes there alfo. Heretofore An Hofpitai 
there was in Combaye an Hofpitai for Sick.Bealls, but it hath been ncg- for fich Beads, 
lefted, and is now fallen to ruin. The Suburbs are almoll as big as the 
Town, and they make Indigo there. The Sea is half a League diftant indigo at C/j?«- 
from it, though heretofore it came up to the Town ^ and that has leflTened ^"^^^ 
the trade of the place, becaufe great Ships can come no nearer than three 
or four Leagues. The Tides are fo fwift ro the North of the Gulph, that 
a Man on Horfe-back at fidl fpced, cannot keep pace with the firft Waves -, 
and this violence of the Sea is one reafon alfo why great Ships go but lel- 
dom thither. The Dutch come not there but about the end of Seftemberi^ 
becaufe along the Coaft of India that looks to Arabia and efpecially in this 
Gulf of Cambaje, it is fo bad for Ships in the beginning^ of this Month, by 
reafon of a violent W eft-wind that blows then, and which is always accom- 
panied with thick Clouds which they call Elephants, becaufe of their lhape, 
that it is almoft impoflible to avoid being caft away. 
Having fatisfied my curiofity as to what is remarkable in Cambaye, I took Ways to l eturni 
leave of my Friends -, and there being feveral ways to go from thence to 
Surrat, I advifed which I had beft to take. One may go by Sea in four and 
twenty hours, in an Almadie which is a kind of Brigantine ufed by the Por- ^imedie. 
tuguefe for Trading along that Coaft: But thefe Veflels go not commonly 
but in the night-time, that they might not be difcovered by the Malabars. The Gulf of 
In the day-time they keep in Harbours, and in the evening the Mafter goes ^"^^"y^ ^arg 
up to fome height to difcover if there be any Malabar Barks at Sea. The S^™"'* 
Almadies Sail fo faft that the Malabars cannot come up with them, but they Malabar Co 
endeavour to furprife them, and when they difcover any one in a Harbour, (ars. 
they skulk behind fome Rock, and fall upon it in its paflage. Many of 
thefe Almadies are loft in the' Gulf of Cambaye^ where the Tides are trou- 
blefome, and the Banks numerous -, and that's one reafon why Men 
venture not to go to Surrat this way by Sea, unlefs extraordinary bufinefs 
prefs them. 
There is another way ftill by Sea, v/hich is to pafs through the bottom 
of the Gulf in a Chariot, over againft Cambaye^ at low Water-, and one 
muft go three Leagues and a half in Water, which then is betwixt two and 
three foot deep : But I was told that the Waves beat fo rudely fometimes 
againft the Chariot, that it required a great many hands to keep it from 
falling, and that fome mifchancc alv/ays happened -, which hindred me 
from undertaking that courfe, though I knew very well that when I was 
paft it, I had no more but eight and twenty Leagues to Surrat. And there- 
fore I chofe rather to go by Land, what danger foever there might be of 
Robbers, as I was affiired there was. 
When my Friends found I was refolved to go that way, they advifed me 
for my fecurity to take a Icheron with a Woman of his Cafte or tribe, to jel 
wait upon me till I were out of danger -, but I refufed to do it, and found 
by the fuccefs that I had reafon to do as I did. Thefe Tcherons are a Cafit 
of Gentiles, who arc highly efteemed amongft the Idolaters : They livc^ 
for moft part at Baroche^ Cambaye^ and Amedabad: If one have any of thefe 
with him he thinks himfelf fafe, becaufe the Man acquaints the Robbers 
they meet, that the Traveller is under his guard, and that if they come 
near him, he will cut his own Throat, and the Woman threatens them 
that fhe'l cut off one of her Breafts with a Razor which Ihe ftiews them ; 
and all the Heathen of thofe places look upon it to be a great misfortune, 
to be the caufe of the death of a Teheran^ becaufe ever after the guilty per- 
fon is an eye-fore to the whole tribe -, he is turned out of it, and for his 
whole life-time after upbraided with the death of that Gentil. Heretofore 
fome 
