But I tpust return to the boat of our eafii^ atart that 
first morning will be a late one. We very soon found 
ourselves in First Lake, It wag easy to get in, but how 
to get out was the question, or rather what direction to 
take. The lake seemed to be as broad as it was long, and 
hills coming down on every side, but we held an even 
course in a northeasterlydirection directf>' across the lake, 
and almost before we knew it, somehow the hills had 
shifted and we found ourselves in Second Lake. I shall 
neyer forget the strange sensations I experienced while 
lin'ding our way up the first three lakes that morning. 
Everything wa's so odd and strange, and strangely new 
The lakes were suth odd shapes, with bays runnmg back 
in thfe marshes and spruce swamps, and all surrounded 
on all sides by high hills, and yet as we moved along on 
our general course the hills really seemed to move about 
and break away at just the right time and place, and all 
was grand, yet picturesque. We reached Third Lake 
without much trouble, but where was the inlet that led 
to Fourth Lake? All who have been there know how 
utterly confusing it is, and »ven when you are in the 
mouth of the inlet you can't imagine that it leads any- 
where or is anyftiing more than a little bay running up 
close to the foot of the hill a few' rods away. That it 
actually breaiics through these hills seems impossible, but 
it does and in mighty short order. The inlet of Third 
Lake or outlet of Fourth, whichever you prefer to call it, 
is rn shape of a letter S, and, Arange to say, not a very 
large letter S either, for if the hills and woods were not in 
thie way you could almost throw a stone from the shore of 
one lake to the other; but if you were a stranger on Third 
Lake you would never guess by looking at the break in 
the hills where Fourth Lake lies. 
I remember we saw a log camp across the lake, and 
headed for it, and as we approached a boat, all of a sud- 
den, appeared in sight right against the hill at the further 
end of the little bay, and yet so near to us that it was 
quite evident that the boat had just turned a bend. 
Could it be possibl-e? It must be, for every other open- 
ing seemed to lead into a spruce swamp, and so we 
rowed into the bay-like opening. Soon it turned sharply 
to the left and then as sharply to the right, and "presto 
change," we were on the other side of the hill and there 
was the great Fourth Lake before us. It all seemed like 
magic, and indeed it was magic, and always will be 
whenever I can take a new trip like this one without a 
fuide and be my own discoverer. But here we were on 
'ourth Lake, and on and up the lake we pulled, and 
with two strong fellows at the oars and the third steering 
it did not take long to reach the northerly end of the 
lake. As it was nearly noon we landed and had dinner 
and a good rest. For the past couple of hours our trip 
had been easy sailing. Fourth Lake is about six miles 
long and seldom over a half mile wide, and it was a very 
simple matter to row to the upper end of the lake, but 
this upper and northerly end was broad and large and 
full of bays, and now that we were once more in the 
boat the question was which way — west, north, north- 
east or east? The hills gave little evidence. I do not 
now remember how we decided to go east, except that 
our general direction was northeast, but east we went, 
and by some "hook or crook" we struck it exactly right. 
Yes, there was a small swift stream coming into the lake 
down a narrow gully between the hills. We would try 
it, and so up the stream we went. I remember that at 
times we had difficulty, and several times had to get out 
and push the boat over the riffles, but eventually we got 
up and into Fifth Lake. This lake is very small, so small 
indeed that when we had gotten fairly in the center of it 
we could see where evidently was the carry, for we knew 
that between Fifth and Sixth and between Seventh and 
Eighth lakes there was a trail or carry, and so we were 
on the lookout for the carry. We landed, and sure 
enough it was quite evident that this was the commence- 
ment of the trail. You could see where boats had been 
hauled out or pushed in the lake, and there was the 
ubiquitous ernpty condensed milk can, and an old 
weather stained piece of newspaper, and other evidences 
of campers and — the trail. And now we were to have 
a new experience. We were to go over our first trail 
and carry pack baskets and an Adirondack boat, and be 
quite the typical wild American Indian. I doubt if any 
of us will ever forget that first trail. The picture is as 
plain to me now as though it all happened yesterday. 
Three fellows — -'and strong healthy fellows too — three pack 
baskets of about 70 pounds each, a bundle made up of 
' the oars, paddle, fish rods and an axe, and a 70-pound 
boal* — only 70 pounds, but all of a sudden it looked as 
as large and as bulky arid as heavy as a meeting house, 
and acted ten times worse. The wild Indian went out 
of us and for a good big minute we were, indeed, infants 
in the woods and no doubt about it. We had never seen 
a boat carried, and had tikt been told, and had asked no 
questions about it. Seventy pounds! Why, there were' 
no questions to ask; the whole matter was simple enough. 
One would take the light bundle of oars, rods and axe, 
and the other two, one at each end, would put the boat 
on their shoulders and make a light, quick trip over the 
carry, and then all would return and each take a heavy 
pack basket. 
In unloading we had noticed that the boat contained 
a yoke such as our forefathers used to gather sap with 
in the sugar buah, but somehow we had paid no attention 
to it and thought nothing of it; and I speak the truth 
when I say that had we noticed the yoke when we first 
got into the boat at Old Forge we might have left it at 
the boat house as unnecessary luggage unless Ave had 
thought to ask some one about it. However, the yoke 
was there, neatly and snugly tucked into the bow or 
stprn end of the boat, I don't remember which, as both 
ends of an Adirondack boat are very much alike. On 
landing and pulling the boat out we proceeded at once 
to carry out our. simple plan, and as I said before, to go 
over the trail the first time light. Billy and I were to 
carry the boat, and the Fiend everything else, except the 
pack baskets. Everything was soon out of the boat and 
ready. The Fiend got his bundle and Billy and I took 
hold of the boat. I can't describe our surprise — the thing 
seemed alive, unruly and balky; then we all three tried 
getting it on our shoulders, then we turned the bloom- 
ing, blasted thing over, and then, two on either side, 
with a cross stick, and one hold of the rear end. On 
level, open ground this latter plan would have worked 
very well, bat on a steep sided hill on a crooked tfail 
through brush and trees it was simply out of the ques- 
tion, and as I said a few moments ago, for a minute or 
so we felt like infants. Could it be pos,sible that this was 
to be the end of our trip? — for to save us we never could 
carry that boat over a mile carry. We could not do it 
any more than we could fly. It Avas a wonder we did not 
injure the boat or ourselves in our efforts, but we did 
not, although we took several good tumbles trying to 
goA'ern the awkward thing. I tell you about this time 
we did some "tall thinking," Avhen of a sudden we be- 
thought ourselves of that yoke — that maybe it had a pur- 
pose — maybe it Avas to put on a man's shoulders, and on 
them rest and carry perhaps the bulk of the boat's weight 
and let his companion in the rear carry the light end 
and steer him. Our respect for 70-pound boats had 
increased wonderfully during the last few minutes, and 
the idea that one man could do it all alone had in a large 
measure been driven out of our heads. Let's try it! 
And then we noticed for the first time notches on each 
side of the boat and just about the middle, and strings 
there too. Yes, that was evidently the place for the 
yoke — and sure enough it just fitted. It did not take 
us long then to catch the idea. Soon the yoke was se- 
curely tied in place, the boat turned upside doAvn, and as 
I was looked upon as the strongest I got under and 
fitted the yoke to my shoulders while my companions 
held up the forward end. Imagine our surprise when I 
got everything adjusted and stood up straight to find 
that not only the boat balanced, but that I absolutely had 
full control of what a few minutes before Ave had con- 
sidered the most awkward old blunderbuss of a thing 
that any of us had ever come in contact with, and that I 
could carry it nicely. The Fiend, and even Billy, who 
was a strapping strong fellow, could hardly believe it 
after the short but very unsatisfactory experience Ave had 
just had, but the new state of things was only too appar- 
ent, and away Ave started over the trail, and I remember 
that I carried the boat fully a half mile without resting 
and then gave it to Billy, who Avas anxious to experiment 
with the "strange deA'ice" and experience the satisfaction 
of knowing that he was' master of that particular 70- 
pound Adirondack boat. He proved equal to the ordeal 
and easily finished the carry. We soon had the balance 
of our outfit over and once more were on the water, this 
time in Sixth Lake. Buck, 
[to be concluded next aveek.] 
The River St. John's. 
Our canvas canoes, after being afloat for two winters 
and a summer on the lakes of southern Florida, and a 
summer on the bay off Clearwater on the Gulf coast, 
were shipped to Palatka. The St, John's with its mossi^ 
shores had appealed to us strongly when we made a 
trip up it four years previous as pas.sengers on the 
steamer City of JacksonA'ille, and we were pleased enough 
to go back to such a river. With our smaU boats we 
could explore every lagoon and creek, or could land and 
penetrate those swamps that, with their gloomy recesses, 
had seemed to us so vague. We were to launch our 
canoes in a ri\'er of Wonderland, and we kncAv it. 
The speed of our train after we left Clearwater was 
terrific. The engineer in his efforts to make up lost 
time evidently meant to break either a record or our 
necks. Every carwheel spun in air. Pine Avoods Avere 
changed to green currents, spotted at intervals with 
orange groves, bright lakes, or skipping cattle. The 
I'oadbed was loose sand ; the tracks Avere like grapevines. 
Babies shrieked wildly. Their mothers avoided our 
looks. Pandemonium existed. All of us Avere scared, 
despondent, but unrcsigned. The assuring smiles of 
trainmen did not assure. A hurricane had leveled much 
of the forest the day before oirr trip, and the man at the 
throttle would haA'e shamed that Avind. We escaped at 
Palatka unhurt, but dazed. 
The house that we occupied during the following 
\\4nter stood near the bank of the St. John's. The views 
from the front veranda Avere fine. The sun rose across 
the wa3'. The appearance of the opposite shore changed 
Avith change of light. To the left a low pile bridge with 
a draw midway extended from bank to bank. The enor- 
mous trombone of the draw-tender roared doleful tunes 
and flashed light till Ave wept. Whistling trains on the 
bridge and whistling boats on the river were constantly 
demanding right-of-way. The boats were of all kinds. 
Those with graceful lines had modern propellers, and 
those of the scow type had paddle-wheels either behind 
or at the sides. Some of these moved with lugubrious 
sighing, and others with animated panting. The whole 
afternoon fleet timed its departure for upstream points 
in a way that resulted in a tangle at the narroAV bend 
across the river. Irate captains expressed themselves 
by means of bell and whistle. Towboats with log rafts, 
coming from the opposite direction, would frequently 
add to the confusion. 
That view We had of the- river was entertaining. Small 
boats were to be seen darting here and there. W'e could 
have set the clock by the visits of the beacon-tender to 
his two Hghts in midstream. Irritable little launches 
called attention to their moA^ements. Larger boats, 
though considered of no great importance when seen at 
some of the tOAvn wharfs, were regarded with reverential 
awe if they entered our coa'c, Avith a respect; like that an 
elephant vs'ould haA'e caused by parading our street. 
The river Avas most attractive on days Avhen it slept 
6etween its mossy banks like a great giant in a Avooly 
bed — a typical Florida doze, in Avhich perfume and bird 
song were delightful dreams and the passage of noisy 
boats was nightmare — a great large sleep that caused 
the beholder to yawn and rub his eyes. The AA-ind seemed 
kind to the huge St. John's at such times, and only tic- 
kled his face into brightness here and there. The gener- 
ous sun warmed him in his peaceful nap. The everyday 
sounds became more musical. Even the saw mills were 
less harsh in their tones and tried to sing a lullaby. No 
wonder that the tranquil outlook, with its accompani- 
ments, nearly OA-erthrew me on more than one occasion. 
The calm waters Avould tempt us from the veranda to 
the boathouse across the street. A moment only was 
spent in launching our canoes. A fcAV strokes of the 
paddles would start us well on our way. Whirling eddies 
from our strokes and ripples from our small ships were 
stre^fl oiii: Msttl iis & brilliant mU's. No Othef motion 
could be pleasanter than the swift sniooth glide of our 
boats, Shores were inspected where palmettos rustled 
tnusically, shady coves entered that gave only glimpses 
of the river, and bends turned that disclosed more -ex- 
tensive views. Cour,sing in midstream made one- feel 
that he was infinitesmal, nothing. 
i\ll the local races Avere sailed over a course that lay 
off our shore. The Meta always had our best wishes in 
these contests, because she tied up at the pier across 
the street from our gate. With her great sail area she 
was strictly a fair weather boat. Many a thrill she gave 
us as she darted along and rounded the furthest beacon, 
turned the stake near us, passed out of sight beyond a 
shingle mill, appeared again, perhaps leading, then ran 
the course as before, to finish at the stake. If she lost 
her captain tied up down stream; but if she won the 
crew were marched past our door, and the feoat was 
photographed at the first opportunity. 
When a strange ship appeared in the offing, our town 
made the most of its coming. Ea'cu the captain and 
crew of a schooner were regarded as sea dogs of tlie 
widest experience, though their most startling adventure 
may have been their course up stream through hyacinths. 
The small Government boats that visited us at times 
were treated to ovations that would have surprised the 
crew of a battleship. Officers and men Avere dined and 
danced till all must have thought themselves at least 
commodores. Every private yacht that came our \A'ay 
had cost "a mint of money," and during its stay Avould 
be visited by whole fleets of inquisitive citizens, among 
others ourselves. Even small sailboats from unknown 
parts excited a A'ast interest. Our location was favora- 
ble for observing all these strangers. 
Soon after our arrival at Palatka I built a lighter canoe. 
Strips from the scrap heap in the yard of the nearest 
mill were used for framing, and a piece of "scale" dressed 
made a neat 4-inch coaming. A graceful craft was conv 
pleted. The comtnunity admired it. A lengthy individ- 
ual, Avhile he clung to the palings, remarked as folloAvs; 
"That there's a inighty pretty boat of yours," 
'Think so?" 
"Yes; it looks like one of thege here Indian canoes." 
"Something." \ 
"And I Avas wondering whether HiaAvatha used a little 
boat like that." 
This stupendous bit of flattery caused me to faint. 
People Avere so apt to regard our canA^as fleet with dis- 
favor, to apply to them such epitaths as "rag-bags," and 
to predict all sorts of dire calamities Avhen certain 
devastating gales, horrible to think of, should wreak their 
Avrath upon us. To some of our warmest friend,s, in- 
deed, our prolonged immunity from the severest pun- 
ishment was_ no less than offensive. Had the angry 
waves engulfed our canoes these same neighbors would 
have risked their lives to save and forgive us. 
The liveliest time on the river was in the afternoon 
when all the local craft were moving about, steamers 
that gave us their wash or whistled at us if they won a 
race, and sailboats from which we received taunting 
cheers, and naphtha launches that were offensively im- 
pertinent, and boats of fishermen that were propelled by 
two rowers Avho faced each other in a bobbing game 
much like kissing. Fiery towboats, Avith rippling rafts 
of black logs, threatened us after nightfall, The hghts 
on the draAvbridge made a brilliant display. Other 
beacons far down the riA^er would become visible. The 
Avaves seemed to be more distinctly audible Avhen dark- 
ness had come. There was a fascination in being out on 
the water at that time. 
We Avcre constantly making cruises' that lasted all day' 
and took us into all sorts of odd corners. At one point 
Avhere barb wire fences had been erected in the water to 
catch hyacinths for cattle, the herd would Avade in chin ' 
deep to pasture on food that must haA'e been delicious 
if the happiness expressed by cow faces meant anything. 
Yearling calves had to swim, and younger fry may. have 
been feeding under water. The grimacing moutjis in 
sight Avere comical to see. A very large wave might 
have Avrought destruction. We ahvays stopped to watch 
the herd. Coavs that led such an amphibious life must 
have yielded milk that was either fishy or at. least diluted. 
On one occasion while going up a small creek through 
cypress forest we discovered a band that contained 
thousands and thousands of Avarbling robins that deluged 
the wilderness with the sweetest music mortal ever heard, 
their concert being more eflfectivc because of the quiet 
through which we had been passing. Robins were eA'ery- 
Avhere — on the ground, bushes, low limbs, treetops, or 
any other perch — and every individual of them was try- 
ing to outdo all of its companions. The rhythmic meas- 
ure of their voices rose and rose to exalted ecstacy, then 
fell to subdued passages in Avhich a pretty accompaniment 
of blackbirds Avas audible. Barking squirrels could not 
make themselves heard. Birds had the day. We floated 
en robin music — miles and miles of it. 
Many varieties of blackbirds wintered in- Florida, and 
large flocks of them arose along, shore to sing in the 
trees. Flights crossed from bank to bank, and burst into 
song as they swept up to high perches. We often gained 
positions right under these minsf:r.els fd listen to them. 
The leaders Avould give a few preliminary chuts, then 
proceed Avith notes more pliant than those "of a violin, 
their singing accompanied by the whole band through 
impressive passages, and by the grace notes of a few 
delightful songsters through the subdued parts. • The 
music Avould dAvindle at times to meageruess, then burst 
forth with renewed animation. The concert of bird 
voices and the seductive influence of climate were very 
soothing. 
Great flocks of migrating birds passed south alohg the 
St. John's in October, and north in February. Moon- 
light nights Avere the most favorable for such travel, 
A general movement Avas noticeable in the air overhead 
directly the sun had set. The small birds seemed to. fly 
scarcely above the treetops, and the larger kinds at a 
greater elevation. All sorts of notes Avere to be heard; 
from the chirps of mimrte Avarblers to the croaks of 
great aquatic birds. The variety of sound caused us to 
speculate as to the kind of migrants oassing overhead. 
There appeared to be an interval in the flight of small 
•birds if herons or like creatures went by. The owls along 
the river were unusually silent on these nights, and may 
have been engaged with afifairs of their own. 
