3 72 
FOREST AND STREAM. 
[Nov, 10, igopr 
the commencement of this article our mmd has wandered 
many thousands of miles, more than half way around the 
globe and in a few minutes has run from shivermg zero 
into sweltering tropics. Our readers must thmk up to 
this point that the headlines of this article must be mis- 
placed; it is not so, only our thoughts and pen ran not. 
We acknowledge that we have done some hshmg 
through the ice, and (in a whisper) we hope to have a 
turn at it this winter. Like all other grown-ups, we 
make the excuse that we go to amuse the children and 
, give them a good time, whereas m truth— and like all 
other grown-ups, too— we take the children along as an 
excuse We spend hours in the evenings making the 
necessary paraphernalia, and have the children around 
Gin- knees. We try to persuade ourselves that the work 
is all absorbing to them. In a short time, on taking 
our eyes off the work, we find they are gone, and learn 
that it is only we ourselves who are the interested party. 
We heave a sigh, and say the youngsters will have lots 
of fun with these tip-ups when the ice is good. It is 
doubtful whether the recreation and bracing atmosphere 
of a dry crisp winter's day is not as beneficial to the o d 
boys as to the young. For our boys we have a fatherly 
and fellow feeling; for all young Waltonians we will 
describe and give cuts and instructions for making four 
different kinds of tip-ups. There is plenty of time be- 
tween now and Christmas to make as many as will be 
required: ^ , , ,. ,- ^t. i. 
Lines —The cheapest kind of 12-thread linen line that 
can be obtained. Twenty foot lengths are required for 
each tip-up. , . 
Hooks.— No. 2-0 Aberdeen are the best; they should 
be eyed. The wire in an Aberdeen hook is finer than 
any other, size for size, and does not injure the minnow 
proportionately. 
Sinkers. — Split an ordinary buckshot and fasten it to 
the line about i foot above the hook. Anything heavier 
is detrimental, as it prevents the minnow from working 
around. 
Tip-Up No. J. 
This is the most primitive device we know of, yet a 
very good one. It consists of an ordinary bush from the 
woods about 7 feet long, which is fixed in the ice A. 
About 18 inches or 2 feet from the bottom leave one of 
the branches and from it a mere twig, B. Close to the 
top C fasten the end of the line, and directly over it a 
piece of red flannel for the flag D. 
The line must now be prepared, and this applies to all 
of the other tip-ups as well. Attach a piece of lead to the 
hook and ascertain the depth. When the lead is on the 
bottom, tie a loop in the line at the level of the water. 
When the loop is tied, pull up the line, take off the lead 
and put on a minnow. Drop it into the hole and let it 
sink until the line is out as far as the loop; then place 
the loop over the twig B. This will place the minnow 
about 18 inches from the bottom — the right place for it 
to be. Coil the spare line around the hole, so tha,t it 
can run out without any obstruction. When a fish bites, 
it draws the loop off the twig and runs out the spare line. 
As soon as it comes to an end, the tugging of the ffsh 
pulls down and waves the flag. The first boy there has a 
chance of either pulling the fish up through the hole or 
knocking it off the hook against the ice, which often 
happens to the inexperienced in this kind of fishing. 
Tip-Up No. 2. 
This is a device easily made. (Cut i.) Take a piece 
of wood 18 inches long, 2 inches wide and 5^ inch thick, 
and with a fret saw cut out the slot A i foot long and 
I inch wide. Then hollow out the two ends C^ and C". 
This is to form a reel to wind the line. At one end cut 
a notch, D. It should be about V?, inch deep. This is 
to place the loop of the line when setting the tip-up. At 
the opposite end fasten a red flag. This can be done 
with a piece of wire about 6 or 8 inches long, E. 
Cuts 2 and 3 show the operation. Secure a straight 
stick >2 inch in diameter, 3 feet long. This can be cut 
from any bush around the pond. Pass it through the 
slot A and .let the ends rest on the ice on either side 
of the hole (cut 2) B. Then draw the tip-up out over 
the ice until the cross bar B is in the position shown in 
cut I, B — I. Drop the minnow in the water and place 
the loop in the line over the notch D. When a fish bites 
it pulls the end of the tip-up down, which slides until 
the cross bar is in position. (Cut 3 and cut i, Bl) The 
flag is now hoisted and requires attention. 
Tip-Up No. 3. 
This is the best we know of, and probably the one 
most easily made. Take a complete rib from an old 
umbrella, cut off the pivot bar i foot from the joint E. 
Cut off the end of the rib where it fastens to the top of 
the umbrella. String on this end a round sinker, D, 
about an ounce in weight, but see that the hole, in this 
sinker is large enough to allow it to run up and down 
the rib easily, When the sinker is on, heat the en4 of 
"7^ 
tiie rib, and with a pair of round-nosed pliers turn the 
half circle F. At the other end of the rib fix the red 
flag C. Take the short pivot rib and drive it into a piece 
of wood 2 inches square and 18 inches long. Sharpen 
the end of this wood to the form of a wedge, B, for in- 
sertion into the ice. To set this tip-up, run the ball up to 
D\ The weight of the flag and the extra length of 
the rib on the other side of the pivot will hold it in this 
position. Drop the minnow into the hole and put the 
loop of the line over F. When a fish bites, it pulls the 
end down and drops the ball to position, D". The flag 
is up to position C". The fish is on. 
Tip-Up No. 4. 
This device requires a considerable amount of me- 
chanical skill to make it nicely. Take a piece of wood 
21-2 feet long, 2 inches wide and lA inch thick, and 9 
inches down from the top fasten the spring flag pole D. 
This pole is made of 14-gauge br-'ss spring wire. Wind 
one end two or three times around some iron instru- 
ment about yk inch in diameter, leaving both ends turned 
out on the inner side, thus: 
a piece of wire (cut 2C). The ends of this wire should 
be turned and passed through the wood work, and either 
again turned or riveted. The end B can be fastened in 
the same manner. It will now be found that if the wire 
(D in cut 2) be brought down to a horizontal position 
and let go suddenly, it will fly back and strike the wood 
work with a sharp click, which on the ice can be heard 
500 feet away. To fasten the flag to the pole it is neces 
sary to solder on another piece of wire, as herewith 
shown: 
L 
■( 
'I 
• 1 
'1 
This is the side placed against the wood w^ork shown 
in dotted lines. One end of this spring should be cut 
short (cut 2B), say 2 inches; the other the length your 
fancy may suggest (cut 2D). 
Through th? eye forrr^ed by winding the spring pas§ 
Through this eye the material for the flag can be 
passed and securely fastened with a needle and thread. 
We must now form the trigger. This is done by turn- 
ing an eye on the end of a piece of wire, and fastening 
it to the wood work with a staple, G. About 6 inches 
from the bottom end bring down the flag pole to a little 
below the horizontal, and turn another eye in the trigger 
wire at the point of intersection, E. Cut off the trigger 
wire 14 inch from E and turn the loop F. The de- 
vice is now ready for operation. Bring down the flag 
pole and pass eye E of the trigger over the end of the 
pole above flag H, cut i. Then pass the loop of the 
line over the trigger F, as shown in cut i. Drop the min- 
now and be ready for a call. When a fish strikes it pulls 
the trigger off the flag pole, and up goes the flag with a 
click. By putting a couple of cleats on the .side of 
any wooden tip-up, as shown in Cut 3, K' and K'. a reel 
is always gvailahle to wind the line on when fishing is 
